Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi... im in the middle of wiring up my car and i screwed up... its a rb25det neo... i went to start the car... fuel pump charged up, starter motor cranked... and cranking and cranking... but no start... ive checked my spark and my injector wiring and its all correct... i then went to the computer and it smelt like the smell you dont like to smell near electrics... i opened it up and i found a diode or resistor to be had it... ive got another computer on the way but i want to know what caused it to let go... the number of the diode/resistor on the computer chip is D620... could anybody tell me what that diode is... or where can i get an electric diagram of the actual computer... if i worked out what pin fed this diode i could work out where i went wrong by using the ecu pinout... i cannot follow it back on the card because the card is multi layered or something like that....

thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131995-my-computer-shat-itself/
Share on other sites

yeh wheezy i didnt *gets in line for somebody to shoot me in the head*

oh well ive found another computer... ill make sure that i put a relay through for sure now... what size relay do i ask for when i get it??? 10 amp???

Providing your loom came with the eccs and ign relays which is should have, then you should have a spare green relay left over near the kick panel.

Use that, if its still there.

Otherwise go the wreckers and grab another one off a r31.

Edited by James_03
Providing your loom came with the eccs and ign relays which is should have, then you should have a spare green relay left over near the kick panel.

Use that, if its still there.

Otherwise go the wreckers and grab another one off a r31.

thanks for that ill do that...

does anyone know where i could find a electrical diagram for the actual computer or tell me what the diode # D620 connects directly to

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I didn't think about how a circle works before, dumb.  Before, I had .9mm restrictor bolts but I can't use these cause they were shorter aluminium bolts that just tear off their threads when tightening since the OEM lines are thicker than the shitty braided one that was installed previously. Now I use longer 1mm stainless steel restrictor bolts. I think the difference will not affect the health of the turbos, but I guess I'll have to drill out the main feed bolt as I agree multiple restrictions sound dodgy. The one that was installed with the braided line was just too short, but completely without a restrictive hole.
    • Tomei or Nitto, don't use the OEM one or Cosmetic ☺️
    • After cleaning up a rusty cooling system in a 33 gtst that's been sitting for years it seems to have cleaned out the head gasket too haha. It seems the Tomei metal gasket works without machining surfaces? Or put oem? Also should put an oil restrictor while the head is off? Thanks
    • Thanks, I definitely saw the more expensive options from Crank and driveshaft shop. Thank you for the D-max option.  Still hopeful someone has an OEM out of the box option I found that the 300zx NA Left drive shaft is a good match for the Right on the R33. https://www.gsplatinamerica.com/product/ncv53040 Just need to find Left CV for the R33, I cannot find any <=22" axles. 
×
×
  • Create New...