Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RBFIRE I wasn't really sure what you meant originally....but like dangerous_daveo said the quickest way to brake is when the tyres are just about to lock up, not after they just have.

You need to practice the feeling of how much braking the car can take on each surface so you know how hard you can brake, and if the tyres lock you need to back off the braking a little until they regain grip.

And if you want more info try googling "cadence braking".

Or if you don't want to learn the technique buy a car with ABS....but learning a new driving skill is a better idea

Seems to me you're not feeling the pedal correctly - maybe invest in a set of front braided brake lines to take the spongyness out of the pedal feel, definately get your shock absorbers (all 4) checked and possible replaced, check all the brake pads and discs for abnormal wear, and possibly invest in new suspn mount bushes etc, oh............and listen to the advice below, : :yes:

ok so try a new braking technique. just slamming the brakes on will lock up your wheels. if you can train yourself to ease the brakes on a bit slow, brush the brakes a lil bit so the nose of your car dips down, THEN push the brake in. That way you are giving the car time to shift weight to the front before you apply full pressure.

Im talking like a split second brush before you bury the pedal. Shifting the weight to the front will allow you to put more pressure on the brakes, as your tyres will be biting down into the tarmac more. If you just slam the brakes on while cruising or jump straight from the accellerator to the brake, there isnt enough weight on the front to stop the tyres from breaking traction, cos its all either centered, or at the rear. Move the vehicles weight onto the front, then bury that pedal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...