Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

i have a r33 gts4

i was wondering, if i was to get the rotors redrilled to 4 stud would i be able to put the calipers and rotors onto my gts4?

anyone have answers?

thanks

I don't see why not, as long as they clear your wheels?

i believe all gts4s have abs? if so then you will need gtr brakes.

if not then it should be alright.

rotors and calipers are a very good upgrade if you like the occassional track work or like a well handled car without having the issues and ongoing costs of a turbo car.

i have an r33 gts with r32gtst calipers and rotors front and rear... so far the only issue has been my spokes from my rims not clearing the bigger brakes.

i've got a street set of 17x7 rims which run spacers, and a track 17x8 rims which do not require spacers...

its all about the spoke design - so its best to do the conversion BEFORE you buy rims.

i believe all gts4s have abs? if so then you will need gtr brakes.

if not then it should be alright.

rotors and calipers are a very good upgrade if you like the occassional track work or like a well handled car without having the issues and ongoing costs of a turbo car.

i have an r33 gts with r32gtst calipers and rotors front and rear... so far the only issue has been my spokes from my rims not clearing the bigger brakes.

i've got a street set of 17x7 rims which run spacers, and a track 17x8 rims which do not require spacers...

its all about the spoke design - so its best to do the conversion BEFORE you buy rims.

i have aftermarket volk racing rims 17x8, and yeh gts4 have abs, but insted of doing a hub conversion i would rather just put the rotors and calipers.......btw do any gtst have abs?

well i'd like to say that even with volks you'll be ok - but i've found it seems to be on an individual basis - you'll have to look into the thickness and height of the rotor hat, etc, spoke design. i suppose you'll find out when you do it. so keep that in mind - as there's no real way to measure the "X-factor" of the spokes. offset has some part influence but not entirely.

well you are going down the same lines as me as i have custom DBA 4 stud r32 gtst front slotted rotors and redrilled r32 gtst rear rotors - also because i had a set of rims i didnt want to get rid of.

to answer your question: yes some gtst's have abs.

i am not sure what the implications are of using RWD GTST calipers and rotors with an R33 GTS4 setup.

to be safe I'd be more inclined to go with a GTR setup or an R32 GTS4 setup - just so it doesnt mess with your attessa system.

what i'm currently looking into now and one of the reasons for going with an R32 GTST brake setup is that the 180SX/S13 stud pattern is the same i.e. 4x114.3, and the thing is that they also have the same diameter rotor discs. sooooo.... my point is that it MAY be possible to run R32 GTST calipers with 180SX rotors, thus not having to get custom rotors/redrilling rotors all the time and also giving the option of slotted/cross drilled rotors which are not so readily available for the non-turbo skylines.

of course then there's measurements of the rotor hat and that may put measurements out again.

hope this helps and puts things into perspective

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...