Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

i have a r33 gts4

i was wondering, if i was to get the rotors redrilled to 4 stud would i be able to put the calipers and rotors onto my gts4?

anyone have answers?

thanks

I don't see why not, as long as they clear your wheels?

i believe all gts4s have abs? if so then you will need gtr brakes.

if not then it should be alright.

rotors and calipers are a very good upgrade if you like the occassional track work or like a well handled car without having the issues and ongoing costs of a turbo car.

i have an r33 gts with r32gtst calipers and rotors front and rear... so far the only issue has been my spokes from my rims not clearing the bigger brakes.

i've got a street set of 17x7 rims which run spacers, and a track 17x8 rims which do not require spacers...

its all about the spoke design - so its best to do the conversion BEFORE you buy rims.

i believe all gts4s have abs? if so then you will need gtr brakes.

if not then it should be alright.

rotors and calipers are a very good upgrade if you like the occassional track work or like a well handled car without having the issues and ongoing costs of a turbo car.

i have an r33 gts with r32gtst calipers and rotors front and rear... so far the only issue has been my spokes from my rims not clearing the bigger brakes.

i've got a street set of 17x7 rims which run spacers, and a track 17x8 rims which do not require spacers...

its all about the spoke design - so its best to do the conversion BEFORE you buy rims.

i have aftermarket volk racing rims 17x8, and yeh gts4 have abs, but insted of doing a hub conversion i would rather just put the rotors and calipers.......btw do any gtst have abs?

well i'd like to say that even with volks you'll be ok - but i've found it seems to be on an individual basis - you'll have to look into the thickness and height of the rotor hat, etc, spoke design. i suppose you'll find out when you do it. so keep that in mind - as there's no real way to measure the "X-factor" of the spokes. offset has some part influence but not entirely.

well you are going down the same lines as me as i have custom DBA 4 stud r32 gtst front slotted rotors and redrilled r32 gtst rear rotors - also because i had a set of rims i didnt want to get rid of.

to answer your question: yes some gtst's have abs.

i am not sure what the implications are of using RWD GTST calipers and rotors with an R33 GTS4 setup.

to be safe I'd be more inclined to go with a GTR setup or an R32 GTS4 setup - just so it doesnt mess with your attessa system.

what i'm currently looking into now and one of the reasons for going with an R32 GTST brake setup is that the 180SX/S13 stud pattern is the same i.e. 4x114.3, and the thing is that they also have the same diameter rotor discs. sooooo.... my point is that it MAY be possible to run R32 GTST calipers with 180SX rotors, thus not having to get custom rotors/redrilling rotors all the time and also giving the option of slotted/cross drilled rotors which are not so readily available for the non-turbo skylines.

of course then there's measurements of the rotor hat and that may put measurements out again.

hope this helps and puts things into perspective

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...