Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all

Well i had time today so i went ahead and fitted my new FLYEN FPR and well that was the easy art, no big deal there.

So i primed to lines, no leaks, BONUS.

Started the car, good, everything runs ok.

As the car ideled i turned the seting up to 40psi, and all still good, no leaks ext.

So went for a drive annnnnnndddd

NO BLODY GOOD MATE. The car simply runs out of puff.

So went home, all lines still good, ok what is going on. SO i ran the car, got the motor to 6000 rpm and the fule pressure drops off. NOw this was under no load, so not sure what is going on. Is it not suppose to insrease with boost pressure. I know it had no load, but hay.

So how do i fix this?

What pressure should i be running? and has anyone got one of these installed? ARE they any good or did i get ripped off?

Also, can somone post a pic of their installation, and maybe a DIY just to double check mine.

THANKS

HELPPPPPPPPP

post-27760-1156855593.jpg

Edited by WogsRus

it does go up and down, but it moves more then 4psi, it propably dropps of to about 30psi, not sure. I will install it again once i have more infor. For now the setup is all inplace, i just reinstalled the stock system, and swithed the lines over.

hi, yeah i still have the stock pump, but the weird thing is the car runs fine with stock FPR no probs, no splutters, starts fine ect.

I am not sure if the reg may be faulty, or what. The only other things is the way the new REG line connects to the fuel rail, it has a bolt on adaptor plate, with an O ring seal, but it seams ok.

One question. Near the fuel filter on the return side, there is some funny check valve or something, what does that do?

So can somone post some pics of their setup to compare my FPR setup.

Thanks.

PS. What psi do the stock pumps handel, and what flow?

Why did you fit the reg if there was nothing wrong with car before hand?

HI all

Well i had time today so i went ahead and fitted my new FLYEN FPR and well that was the easy art, no big deal there.

So i primed to lines, no leaks, BONUS.

Started the car, good, everything runs ok.

As the car ideled i turned the seting up to 40psi, and all still good, no leaks ext.

So went for a drive annnnnnndddd

NO BLODY GOOD MATE. The car simply runs out of puff.

So went home, all lines still good, ok what is going on. SO i ran the car, got the motor to 6000 rpm and the fule pressure drops off. NOw this was under no load, so not sure what is going on. Is it not suppose to insrease with boost pressure. I know it had no load, but hay.

So how do i fix this?

What pressure should i be running? and has anyone got one of these installed? ARE they any good or did i get ripped off?

Also, can somone post a pic of their installation, and maybe a DIY just to double check mine.

THANKS

HELPPPPPPPPP

well basically, i had about 4k worth of parts sitting on the floor of my garage for about 6 months, as i had no car then, just the parts.

Now i have the car, i am slowly puting things in.

I fitted the FPR as i am installing my SAFC II this week, and once the FMIC is on, i am going to run 12 psi. Seing as most skylines hit RR about then, i am going to trick the computer by leaning out the map on the SAFC II and then bumping the fuel pressure back up to make sure it still has correct flow.

I cheacked for vac leacs, and all seams ok, the fuel pressure decreases with vacume ect.

I am thinkg that maybe it's not a 1:1 FPR and hence once on boost it runs toooo ritch. Not sure.

Maybe i go and get a nismo one and bolt that up instead.

ONE MORE THING, does it matter if the reg is not horizontal but vertical, can that couse any problems. ie. the inlet is 90 down and the outlet is horizontal.

pressure valve?

which one, the tank bypas one. Well i think i might get a new pump anyway, but i don't understand why the stock reg at 38psi, runs fine, and not at 40 psi on the new reg.

Strainge.

ANy other ideas.

Has anyone found a simmilar problem before?

It shouldn't matter which way it is mounted - its simply a diaphragm with variable pressure applied to one side.

Free revving at 6k is unlikely to produce any boost, so the fuel pressure won't rise too far. And a constant free-revving 6k will still likely have a fair bit of vacuum happening in the plenum. So, again, the fuel pressure won't rise too far.

Really stupid question - you did connect manifold vacuum to the new FPR?

yes i connected the vacume in and yes it's a rising reg, as in the vacume line as boost comes in provides extra pressure for the injectors.

however not sure what the rate is 1:1 or 1:2 and so on. MYBE the rate is too high and flods the motos, like i said, it's fine to drive off boost, no problems AT all, drive round all day, aslong as there is no boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...