Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Gt-rs Spool Time?

Street Show

By Street Show,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

on the rb26 in twin form they will come a fair bit late as they are much larger than n1's and 2530's. have a look in the rb26 turbo upgrade thread as they have been covered before. you really need a built engine to get the most out of them and rev rev rev. i would expect somewhere near 5800rpm ?

SCOOP Enthusiast

SCOOP

Posted
Posted
I was running GTRS's on a stock motor for a while. They were a bit laggy...but when I dropped in a set of 260 deg PONCAMS, the improvement was huge.

On full load in the higher gears, I was seeing full boost (1.3ish bar) at about 4800RPM

No Mik, They are shiiiiitttttt!!!!!!! :(:P

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Dirtgarage here did a swap from 2530 to GT-RS

Do a search, i think the end result was he should have stuck with the 2530's :(

i believe he also said that they would have come alive with more aggressive cams and a bigger capacity engine. as many people have said, they r suited perfectly to the rb30 gtr :P

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

thats the problem paul, u cant get a straight answer on that one, everyone says it comes down to set-up and what the purpose of the car is.

I'm contemplating going a set of gt3037's for the rb2630 just to see how 'laggy' they really are. Yes they will be able to make massive power (~900hp), but then a set of GT-RS's would be able to make ~700hp but have way better response. I spose you cant really tell until someone tries them out.

Street Show Apprentice

Street Show

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hmmm After I sell my H2 I'm getting the N1 block and the hks stroker kit and the many upgrades that go with this. So it sounds like I'm just gonna have to get both and try them both and see which ones I like the best

Thanks for the help

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted
hmmm After I sell my H2 I'm getting the N1 block and the hks stroker kit and the many upgrades that go with this. So it sounds like I'm just gonna have to get both and try them both and see which ones I like the best

Thanks for the help

This is my setup. See comments in the RB26 thread or PM me if you want specific info on the GT-RS terbs with an HKS 2.8L kit.

Cheers

Gav

SLY33 Mentor

SLY33

Posted
Posted
This is my setup. See comments in the RB26 thread or PM me if you want specific info on the GT-RS terbs with an HKS 2.8L kit.

Cheers

Gav

Hi Gav, long time! How are the GTRS's serving you so far, still chuffed with the choice?!

The big question IS: now that youve had them a while, are you used to the power and thinking that you could use more!!!!?? :rofl::( obviously your pretty much at the top of the low mount twin food chain!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...