Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, my car started puffing smoke the other day and I might be looking at replacing the engine (has done over 220,000kms - RB20DET)

It happens when I absolutly gas it (around redline / fullboost) and when I back off or change gear, it puffs a pretty big cloud of dark smoke (don't think it is fuel)

I don't think it is my turbo as it is at high RPM not specifically high PSI that it happens. Plus I recently replaced it with a low km R34 turbo.

It is still driving perfectly fine, pulls hard but just puffs pretty hardcore when I back off. Started happening on a big highway drive a few weeks back and hasn't gone away. Pretty embarrasing when you drag someone off at the lights and then cover them in smoke!

Anyway, long story short, before I take it in to the mechanic for a diagnosis, what could it be?

Worn Rings? - I would have thought it would happen all the time not just when backing off

Worn / Damaged Valves? - Most likely in my mind...

Catch Can? - Maybe it is how I hooked it up? - Did a bit of research on here how others have done it...

Would be great to get some ideas.

Thanks in advance!!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132833-blowing-smoke/
Share on other sites

if it is dark, then it is most likely just fuel. do you have an atmo bov? if you do then this may be the cause.

Yeah, but I still have the factory one... Might be the cheapie leaking? Might try putting in a couple of washers and removing the vaccume hose (and block that off of course)

Thanks very much for you help!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132833-blowing-smoke/#findComment-2460208
Share on other sites

Well... it wasn't the BOV!

I am going to have to check the ECU for error codes. Lets see if there is any insight in there... I am still thinking it is oil, it would have to be a SHITE load of fuel, and it seems to be running well!

Any other ideas?

Once I get the final verdict from the shop, I may look at replacing the engine with a low k jobbie (will only need the engine, no box, loom, puter or manifolds...) and building this one up over time with some more solid internals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132833-blowing-smoke/#findComment-2462342
Share on other sites

I haven't had a chance to check the error codes... just wondering if it was fuel, could it be the AFM? and if that was the cause, could a faulty AFM cause my idle issue - Sits at 1500rpm when I stop at the lights and then after 5secs or so, it goes down... The problem goes away after an ECU reset but comes back after around 200k's. This leads me to think that the ECU is recieving an error (MAYBE THE AFM) and tries to adjust the A/F ratios to a safe level... Resetting the ECU didn't fix the cloud of smoke issue.

Just a thought.

BTW, I originally thought it could be the O2 sensor (idle issue) so I replaced that and rest the ECU. (obviously fixed it temporaraly) I also resoldered the AFM internals, cleaned it and cleaned out the ACC valve.

Seriously guys, I really do appreciate your help and will help others out when I can!

Thanks!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132833-blowing-smoke/#findComment-2469173
Share on other sites

my mates 33 gtst does this, after he boosts and changes gear after a few moments this huge puff of smoke comes out of his exhaust...

only thing came to mind was, either turbo smoke or bcoz he has no cat?

anyone confirm, having no cat would make smoke come out like that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132833-blowing-smoke/#findComment-2478660
Share on other sites

More then likely its just blowby that is getting sucked into the chamber through the PCV valve when you back off. The valve is held closed when there is no manifold vacuum (on boost) and when you back off it gets sucked through and out the exhaust. All sounds normal to me.

Edited by RB30-POWER
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132833-blowing-smoke/#findComment-2478953
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...