Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car wasn't optioned with the factory A-Pillar tweeters, but I have found some a-pillar tweeter trimmings and was wondering if I bought them and fitted them to my car if you could fit aftermarket tweeters (focals to be specific) in them?

here's come pics of the factory tweeter trimming:

post-11149-1157528268.jpgpost-11149-1157528311.jpg

Theres not as much room behind the A pillar trims as it looks so fitting aftermarket tweets may not fit too easily behind the factory grills. The factory optioned tweets are quite small.

Give it a measureup and see, some of the focal tweets are fairly small so you never know I suppose.

I looked into it when I was doing my install.. Not enough room.

And from memory, the little rectangle doesn't pop out, it's just a groove in the plastic if you didn't have the tweeter option. You probably would have to cut the holes out?

Stylish.. now THAT's doing it right!

If you can get your hands on the pillars, wouldn't they have the tweeters still attached?

Or is the quality of the optional tweeters lacking somewhat?

Naww bro! Get two a-pillar guage-holders, and then stick them in that. Then light them up with a bright blue light and write "NISMOHKSGREDDY" on them.

;op

=-]

Yep, but I was going to replace the whole panel with one that had the tweeter option :O

nice , neat and only you know what is under it :spank:

finding them could be fun though.

what about the tweeters on the r34 pillars? can they be replaced by aftermarket?

never tried. I think the one I have coming up on friday has them so I'll look.

If you have $600 focal speakers (very nice) you don't want to be mounting them in the A pillars as the positioning is extrememly poor sound wise.

I had a professional install done on mine with a pair of focal split's, and they mounted the tweeters at the back of the dash board (tilteded on an angle), paying great attention to the positioning and angle they mounted at.

If your spending the money of this sort of quality gear it;s really worth positioning the speakers correctly. Extremely happy with mine, they really look quite neet.

ahh thanks for the tip mate.

I have heard alot about tweeter positioning, if you ask FHRX he will suggest mounting them in the foot well, other people suggest near the windscreen, and others about a hand space from the midbass driver. I guess it all depends on personal taste. Chris Rogers will prob suggest another place again :dry:

Yeah mine are mounted near the windscreen.

Other thing is when your installing quality gear you really must sound deaden the front doors to get the most out of it. Really is amazing the difference it makes. As with everything it must be installed properly, if you can afford it Dynamat Xtreme is the best, but some of the others are OK.

Heaps of info on sound deadening in these forums.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have just fitted a set of pioneer splits to my front doors, I also was after the clean and tidy look so i sprayed the silver tweeter trimmings matt black. The combo of dynamat extreme on the inner and outer door sheetmetal and the positioning of the tweeter is great, the tweeters literally scream at you, not like some other tweeters ive seen where you struggle to hear them. Heres a pic of my door setup.

post-30339-1158882199.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...