Jump to content
SAU Community

Bov Problem Help!

Woody1

By Woody1,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Woody1 Enthusiast

Woody1

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys i installed a Apexi Dual chamber blow off valve to my R33 Gtst Skyline and well, its not working lol????

Its blowing out my air cleaner making a flutter sound? Turbo spooling backwards? no good eh? the valve isnt opening on the top and the funny thing is you cant suck the plunger up (vacume) like you could on the stock BOV any ideas guys i have tryed hooking this up every bloody way maybe still doing it wrong can somone give me some info or maybe this BOV is just not working how it should ><

or its the wrong one :)

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/9792/3008061807xy1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133581-bov-problem-help/
Share on other sites
m0t4v4ll1 Enthusiast

m0t4v4ll1

Posted
Posted
Hey Guys i installed a Apexi Dual chamber blow off valve to my R33 Gtst Skyline and well, its not working lol????

Its blowing out my air cleaner making a flutter sound? Turbo spooling backwards? no good eh? the valve isnt opening on the top and the funny thing is you cant suck the plunger up (vacume) like you could on the stock BOV any ideas guys i have tryed hooking this up every bloody way maybe still doing it wrong can somone give me some info or maybe this BOV is just not working how it should ><

or its the wrong one :D

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/9792/3008061807xy1.jpg

the flutter sound is the rush of pressure back to the turbo and the resonation in the cooler.... cause its not releasing... and its trying to find a way out, and so the only way it is through the air filters... Alot of people will give u theories as to whether this is bad for ur turbo or not - in the long term it is bad

its definately not the wrong BOV, i know plenty of guys wit a dual chamber one u have, clearly the BOV is blocked, thus the noise i mentioned above

r u sure u cant adjust it by turning it with like a wrench?

Woody1 Enthusiast

Woody1

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
the flutter sound is the rush of pressure back to the turbo and the resonation in the cooler.... cause its not releasing... and its trying to find a way out, and so the only way it is through the air filters... Alot of people will give u theories as to whether this is bad for ur turbo or not - in the long term it is bad

its definately not the wrong BOV, i know plenty of guys wit a dual chamber one u have, clearly the BOV is blocked, thus the noise i mentioned above

r u sure u cant adjust it by turning it with like a wrench?

I have it its as lose as it can go... maybe i should change the spring so its under less load?

Would you be able to find out where they have the vacume hoses going???

and no it never blows off i am only running 7 pund but that shouldnt matter

Thanks a bunch for these replys its very helpfull

Edited by Woody1
Woody1 Enthusiast

Woody1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I have it its as lose as it can go... maybe i should change the spring so its under less load?

Would you be bale to find out where they have the vacume hoses going???

Thanks a bhunch for these replys its very helpfull

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

The vacuum hose must go to the plenum between the throttle body and #4 inlet runner, there is a port there for it, if that is connected, then the bov is probably stuck, just dismantle it, clean it all up and rub any marks or rough spots with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
The vacuum hose must go to the plenum between the throttle body and #4 inlet runner, there is a port there for it, if that is connected, then the bov is probably stuck, just dismantle it, clean it all up and rub any marks or rough spots with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper.

You shouldn't need to do this to a new BOV. Never use sandpaper on this internals, you will wreck it.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Is that an adapter plate that came with the BOV?

Someone asked a similar question once, and it ended up being a blocking plate that the new BOV was bolted to.

Stupid suggestion, but it was stupid last time too! ;o)

Oh, and you're not getting any less power, right? It's building actual boost over the "0" mark on the stock guage, yeah?

Woody1 Enthusiast

Woody1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Is that an adapter plate that came with the BOV?

Someone asked a similar question once, and it ended up being a blocking plate that the new BOV was bolted to.

Stupid suggestion, but it was stupid last time too! ;o)

Oh, and you're not getting any less power, right? It's building actual boost over the "0" mark on the stock guage, yeah?

No im not getting any less power, i dismantled the bov nothing is wrong in there, no that adaptor didnt come with the bov i made it, people wanted to charge me $130 for them to make it so i just did it myself cost me $5, and an hour of my time, the bov has 3 vacume house's coming out of it top, middle bottom, the bottom is for a boost gauge so i blocked it off the top is where i assume the Vacume house from the manifold goes (same house the stock one had) and the middle is hooked up to the same chamber i had blocked off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Duncan · Posted

      If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • tidi0x
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By tidi0x · Posted

      Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
×
×
  • Create New...