Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just wondering if you can give me an idea of what might be happening with my car

94 GTS25T Mods: Exhaust, Cooler, Pod and Power FC only use BP Ultimate and Royal Purple Oil

thursday night i had an intercooler pipe pop off and the car stalled was a little hard to start but once going again all seemed fine.

I did an oil and filter change on friday night also put on new silicone hoses for IC pipe

i feel as though since saturday night the car was running a little rough then lastnight late (was quite cold night)

i was heading home and the engine light was came on at 4500rpm the knock reached 136 so i babied it home

let it cool down for an hour while i stood there looking at the engine like a fool took it fo another short drive and the same thing happened

I did to put a bottle of Nulon Injector cleaner in my tank on saturday not sure if this could have anything to do with it though?

on the way to work today i did take it really easy but got the revs upto about 5500 twice which saw knock reach 35

so yeh any ideas on what the reason for the knock getting so high? Is it safe to drive it like this?

I think the car has not been tuned for atleas 15,000ks mabye even 20,000k could this be the reason - do cars just get out of tune??? or is this likely to be something more mechanical like a broken/melted/worn part?

cheers,

Dan

Edited by dano4127
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133794-knock-136/
Share on other sites

paulr33 - i just read that whole article awesome work now i feel like i need to go lay down to take all that information in!

i think i will take it to someone to get it tuned as i would like to put in a Z32 AFM, new fuel pump and mabye an AVCR then i can get it all setup at the one time and get the car fully retuned

you just seem to hear so many varied opinions on who to get to tune you car it is so hard to know who to trust!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133794-knock-136/#findComment-2480793
Share on other sites

Cold = more knock? I thought knocking was a heat issue in the first place since its basically early combustion? Have i been looking at it backwards the whole time?

its both.

Cold air = More air = leaner more unstable mixtures = Knock.

Heat soak or hot air = hot fuel = unstable mix = knock.

you need to get it somewhere in between, or tune the car on a stinking hot day, and you'll never knock out in the cold.

Thats how I tune my car.

Also, cold air can make your turbo boost an extra psi sometimes, and lean the car out, causing knock. Get an electronic boost controller.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133794-knock-136/#findComment-2484935
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...