Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All I just got a 95 r33 gts-t and I performed a service on it with the help of this forum Thanks to all and the tutorials. Until now everything about the car was great now all of a sudden I am felling a lil crunch from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd and they are the only gears I feel it in funny thing is its only when the rpm is above say 2500 if I am just cruising and I shift from 1st to second it feels normal and from 2nd to third feels the same as well but when I'm accelerting it crunches as mentioned b4. I didnt start to feel the crunch until afer I changed my gear oil as a part of the service didnt know what was in it b4 but I put in castrol gear oil 80w 90 and then I drove it a bit hard to allow the oil to work its way through the gears. Like I said I didn't notice a crunch b4 but now I do after the gear oil change during the change there wasnt any metal chunks in the oil just a a fair amount of metal shavings but the gear oil was probably ever changed b4 and i dont know how long it had been in there. The crunch is not really loud more of a feeling than a sound but if you are listening for it you will hear it. Does ne1 have any solutions for this. I read something about synchros needing to be changed but I cant afford that right now and was wondering what else would be a quick fix.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133815-2nd-and-3rd-gear-crunch/
Share on other sites

ok, well the crunch is a mix of using a different oil, and the fact that the gears are worn. the first 3 gears are used the most, since most of these cars only ever do city driving in japan. also that fact that when people race around and snap change gears it is usually done from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd.

if you went to a good oil, like redline or something like that, it may quieten down the crunch. but most manual cars that have had a bit of a hard time make the same noise.

ok, well the crunch is a mix of using a different oil, and the fact that the gears are worn. the first 3 gears are used the most, since most of these cars only ever do city driving in japan. also that fact that when people race around and snap change gears it is usually done from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd.

if you went to a good oil, like redline or something like that, it may quieten down the crunch. but most manual cars that have had a bit of a hard time make the same noise.

So the only way to really get rid of the noise would be to what change the gearbox or the synchros? If I where to put in a thicker oil would that help because I live in the Bahamas and we don't carry the redline stuff.

So the only way to really get rid of the noise would be to what change the gearbox or the synchros? If I where to put in a thicker oil would that help because I live in the Bahamas and we don't carry the redline stuff.

A thinner oil will make it easier to shift, not thicker. Some guys use ATF (auto trans. fluid) in their gearbox because its very thin and makes shifts much easier. The proper way to fix the problem however is to strip the gearbox and replace the worn syncros. However this isnt a cheap excersize if you have to pay for both parts and labour. Might be easier to buy either a reco'd box or a 2nd hand one. Upto you...

Id suggest trying thinner oil first. You probably replaced the oil that was already in there with thicker oil and that brought back the crunches.

Hope this helps,

Deren

:)

Ohh that probably was my mistake I thought I read to use a thicker oil thats why i got the 80w 90. Damn so let me get this str8 try to replace that with a thinner oil not thicker? Cus I could have sworn the tutorial said to use a thicker oil.

Yep, thinner the better, I had those crunches and replaced the oil with some Redline Shockproof and viola, crunches go bye bye :P

Ok so like I stated earlier dont think I have the redline stuff over here being from the bahamas, what oil weight what you recommend getting instead I put in Castrol 80w 90 and will putting a gearbox additive help or add to the problem?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.
    • So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this   I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.  
    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
×
×
  • Create New...