Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I live in Huntsville, Alabama in the US. I will be importing an R32 soon and want to know which would be a better car. I plan on, if I get the GTS-t, putting in an RB26DETT and eventually getting it up to GTR looks. I will primarily be drifting and heading out to the local drag strip. Which car would be a better buy, an R32 GTR or an R32 GTS-t? The GTR would cost me more at first, but will be AWD. The GTS-t would cost me less at first, and I can upgrade in stages, but will be RWD. I assume that having it RWD would be better for drifting, as AWD is inteneded to reduce traction loss, thus hindering ability to drift. However, I have read that with the GTR's AWD system, it only gives the front wheels power if it detects loss of traction in the rear wheels, and it can be locked in either AWD or RWD modes. Is this true? I would just like some simple advice on the subject.

Thanks

Mazikowski

EDIT: Just on a side note, I am about 6' 2" tall (so around 2m?). How would headroom in the car be for me? Would it be overly tight?

Edited by Mazikowski
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/
Share on other sites

well it really depends.. if your going to use it more for drift or drag.

it will be ALOT cheaper to go the route of the GTR. Running conversions and doign things in stages will cost you an arm and a leg in labour/time/parts

plus.. who doesnt want a gtr :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/#findComment-2483860
Share on other sites

Go the GTR! You can easily turn off the AWD by pulling a fuse or putting in a switch to turn it on or off.

It will be more expensive initially but you will spend more to get the GTSt to anywhere near the same dynamics in the long run.

If it does not have a sunroof you should be right height wise or you could fit lower seats if not.

Thought you guy's could not have Skyline GTR's there in the land of the free :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/#findComment-2483956
Share on other sites

well, you cant import them really because of laws in states with major ports, but if you import the car w/o engine + engine separate, it can be done, just assemble it in the destination state and off you go... besides, it helps to have some connections :dry:

I should be able to get a GTR for around < USD25k or a GTS-t for < USD15k

plus.. who doesnt want a gtr :O

this is true... OH HOW TRUE THIS IS!!!! lol, sorry, had to get that outta my system

Edited by Mazikowski
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/#findComment-2484197
Share on other sites

If it is SPECIFFICALLY for drift, I'd go GTS-T. Lower purchase price, less weight (AWD hardware is HEAVY!), cheaper to replace parts and body panels (probably).

If it's a powerful multipurpose drag/track street car, I'd go a GTR.

I'm 6ft4 (with a heavy build), and I fit in my R32 GTS-T just fine. But for enthusiastic driving, I'd budget for a new drivers seat and steering wheel - the standard items are under and over sized (respectively) and are pretty much useless for people my size! The R32 GTR seats are apparently much better, but alas I have never driven one and hence cannot comment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/#findComment-2489230
Share on other sites

If it is SPECIFFICALLY for drift, I'd go GTS-T. Lower purchase price, less weight (AWD hardware is HEAVY!), cheaper to replace parts and body panels (probably).

If it's a powerful multipurpose drag/track street car, I'd go a GTR.

I'm 6ft4 (with a heavy build), and I fit in my R32 GTS-T just fine. But for enthusiastic driving, I'd budget for a new drivers seat and steering wheel - the standard items are under and over sized (respectively) and are pretty much useless for people my size! The R32 GTR seats are apparently much better, but alas I have never driven one and hence cannot comment.

Alright, thanks for the info on sizing. I will most likely be using it for both and maybe even some... I guess it would be like circuit? ... racing. Knowing that I can switch between AWD and FWD with a switch ( gotta install first, I know ) makes me wnat the GTR, a bit more power and better car for the most part. Now, to get the money >_<

Thanks

Mazikowski

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/#findComment-2492245
Share on other sites

Id go the gtst personally, cheaper parts and parts are easly found. with the extra money you will have left if you bought a gtst, you could put it back into your car. dont let the GTR badge fool you I have seen plenty of gtst beat gtr in races on the street and personally, there's not substitute for hanging that arse out when you feel the need to. :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/#findComment-2492712
Share on other sites

why would it be less expensive? I would end up putting an RB26 in most likely.

I will have to do some more research into it, but I still have a while to go before I would be fully deciding.

why bother with the rb26, go the rb 30, with rb25 top end, its stronger and can produce big hp. and go 1 big single turbo rather then twin turbo.

with the bigger engine, and reduced weight (not having a GTR) = :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/#findComment-2493346
Share on other sites

but how hard would it be for me to get a 30 with rb25 top end? Like I said, It will take some research... thanks for the advice all the same

::EDIT::

Although it has a larger displacement than the RB26DETT, maximum possible horsepower is less, as the RB30 block lacks the RB26 block's internal cast-in bracing, and consequently cannot rev as high due to harmonic issues at ~7500RPM. To compensate, the RB30DET produces more torque at lower revs.

from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_RB_engine#RB30

Edited by Mazikowski
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133936-gtr-or-gts-t/#findComment-2495813
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...