Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was thinking about posting the exact same question.

My fuel economy is up shit creek. I'm getting 15L/100 OFF BOOST and then 20+L/100 when giving it a bit of stick.

I've recently had a new fuel pump and new timing belt.

What stuff should I check?

Whats there to check with the 02 Sensor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13399-fuel-economy/#findComment-259054
Share on other sites

I was getting really bad Fuel Economy a few months ago (lucky to get 200k to a tank) I replaced my o2 sensor 4 a ford unit all is now good.

Long steady drives i get over 500 k to a tank, arround town strapping it i get at worst 400k's.

I would get you O2 sensor replaced.

The ford unit is the same as the nissan one only cheaper and you need to change the plug to the nissan one 4 it to fit. For under $90 well worth it.

Regards

Damqik

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13399-fuel-economy/#findComment-259291
Share on other sites

The o2 sensor is located on the back of the turbo & has 3 wires going to it. I got my replacement one from Barnes high performance Nambor (he can fit 4 u tho I did mine myself)

The Afm is mounted on the back of the air box has about 5 wires going to it, give it a spray with Co Contact cleaner made by CRC

try the following link for more info

http://www.wave.co.nz/~hksnz/techfiles/oxy...orlifespan.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13399-fuel-economy/#findComment-259294
Share on other sites

The O2 sensor is only used by the ECU during closed loop operation. Even with a faulty O2 sensor your fuel economy should only drop a bit.

300km to a tank is a significant drop. I doubt it'll be your O2 sensor. Could be a bad tune, fault spark plugs, a blocked/damaged cat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13399-fuel-economy/#findComment-259302
Share on other sites

Yeah, I'm talking 300km at BEST.

If I give it a bit I'm lucky to get 250.

I spoke to a mechanic about it today.

He's gonna replace it for me under the warranty I got with my car.

Who says those warranties aren't worth shit hey?

We'll see how it goes hey?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13399-fuel-economy/#findComment-259877
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Originally posted by poyz

The O2 sensor is only used by the ECU during closed loop operation. Even with a faulty O2 sensor your fuel economy should only drop a bit.

300km to a tank is a significant drop. I doubt it'll be your O2 sensor. Could be a bad tune, fault spark plugs, a blocked/damaged cat.

I disagree. I changed my O2 sensor, and that has made all the difference. I'm getting waaaaaaay better economy then what i did before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13399-fuel-economy/#findComment-292896
Share on other sites

Originally posted by poyz

The O2 sensor is only used by the ECU during closed loop operation. Even with a faulty O2 sensor your fuel economy should only drop a bit.

300km to a tank is a significant drop. I doubt it'll be your O2 sensor. Could be a bad tune, fault spark plugs, a blocked/damaged cat.

Actually skylines spend most of their time in closed loop the only time there not is @ full throttle or accelerating off.

If the O2 sensor is stuffed the ecu gos into the safe (Rich) limp home mode.

Therefore as many people have said replacing the O2 sensor has given them much better fuel economy if you have a stock or near stock car and get shit economy I'd recommend replacing it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13399-fuel-economy/#findComment-293313
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
    • Yeah, I guess its pretty easy to get to if this doesn't work. Just wait till next oil change and pull it out. I am going to have to do the oil pan gasket soon and thought I'd just replace it while I was there.  Thanks
    • All that matters is you're safe and you were able to type that post. Hopefully heaps of parts you can recover for the next shell.  
×
×
  • Create New...