Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Advertising this for a mate.

17" black and red advan racing wheels.

Set of 4.

Straight off his skyline.

Needs new tyres

Some scratches but can be repaired.

$1200 or make an offer.

All offers will be considered or may be willing to do a swap.

Contact chris on 0431987481 with any questions, like i said they are his wheels not mine.

http://www.teamloose.com/index.php?act=Att...ost&id=1345

http://www.teamloose.com/index.php?act=Att...ost&id=1346

them links should work for pictures.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134005-17-advan-racing-wheels/
Share on other sites

no idea sorry, it is really shiny metallic red and then the black in the middle, still as they came from new i think so whatever the normal finish was new.

also wheels are 17x9 rear and 17x8 front with 35 offset

Edited by VKYOOT
no idea sorry, it is really shiny metallic red and then the black in the middle, still as they came from new i think so whatever the normal finish was new.

also wheels are 17x9 rear and 17x8 front with 35 offset

Are the rears +38?

Hey guys,

yea im located in geelong, i can post anywhere in australia if you want but you will have to either organise the wheels to be picked up yourself or you can send me the extra $ for postage if you want me to organise it for ya.

the front wheels are 17" x 8" with a 35 off set, the backs are 17" x 9" but i am not sure of the off set, i assume it is exactly the same as the ones on the front. il check them in the morning and get back to ya's on it.

anyone would like to take them this week i could probably work out a better price for them.

cheers.

chris.

the front wheels are 17" x 8" with a 35 off set, the backs are 17" x 9" but i am not sure of the off set, i assume it is exactly the same as the ones on the front. il check them in the morning and get back to ya's on it.

anyone would like to take them this week i could probably work out a better price for them.

cheers.

chris.

Offset for the rears won't be the same as the fronts as this rim wasn't released in a 17x9 inch with a +35 offset, only 22, 38 & 42. I reckon it'll be 38

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
    • They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up. 
×
×
  • Create New...