Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a few questions to ask regarding my nissan skyline r32 GTS4.. its the same as a GTS skyline except it has all the running gear of the GTR except the gear box and engine, so its 4wd..

in regards the the perfromance how much power is the stock rb20 engine capable of????

how much power can the GTS 4 gearbox withstand????

i have just purchased a 600 by 300 front mount by trust and i am hutning for a turbo which would be better suited for my car a 600hp T/3 T/4 trust or 370hp T28..

i was talking to someone who said i can get a piggy back type chip from a genuine nissan type dealer in melbourne for like 1000 bucks has anyone got one or heard of them???

what else am i going to need to make my car run efficently in regards i think i am going to need a fuel pump, injectors(wat size), possibly cams is there anything else..

any information would be helpfull as i am right in the process of gettin this stuff done the sooner i know the sooner i can go buy and enjoy my car lol

thanx guys also any other information regarding my car would be helpful in regards to parts and places i can get them from..

cheers jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134628-performance-info-needed-for-my-r32/
Share on other sites

Stzrt by looking in the rb20 sticky section at the top of the page, anything up to about 250rwkw is about the limit of streetable power, although at this level expect it to be quite laggy. I believe the gearboxes are similar to gtr ones, so you wont have any problems there. Depending on what power output you are after, look at the rb20 guide, there is heaps of turbo selections avail, you just have to weigh up lag versus power. There are two guys on here who can do chips, no where near $1000, lot cheaper, or you could get a power fc for about $1600. You will need injectors, gtr ones are cheap and go straight in, a gtr fuel pump will do nicely, cams and gears aren't a bad idea, but ive seen 276rwkw without them. Use the search function it will save you a lot of time. The biggest problem you will have is that it is only a 2lt, and to make big power, you get big lag.

Stzrt by looking in the rb20 sticky section at the top of the page, anything up to about 250rwkw is about the limit of streetable power, although at this level expect it to be quite laggy. I believe the gearboxes are similar to gtr ones, so you wont have any problems there. Depending on what power output you are after, look at the rb20 guide, there is heaps of turbo selections avail, you just have to weigh up lag versus power. There are two guys on here who can do chips, no where near $1000, lot cheaper, or you could get a power fc for about $1600. You will need injectors, gtr ones are cheap and go straight in, a gtr fuel pump will do nicely, cams and gears aren't a bad idea, but ive seen 276rwkw without them. Use the search function it will save you a lot of time. The biggest problem you will have is that it is only a 2lt, and to make big power, you get big lag.

thanx mate i had a rough idea that 260kw was kinda the limits of the stock engine.. i have been contemplating putting in an engine transfer but the offer of a sponsor for my car parts came up so i didn't have to pay much to get more power..

much appreciated adriano

250-260kw out of a rb20 is going to be a lag MONSTER!

as for the ecu, just get a remap done of the stock ecu.

my recomendation though is to drop the rb20 out and put a turbo rb25 in. they are much easier to make power out of without being too lagy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...