Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I started the car up this morning and it just idled roughly for a second or two and then this noise developed. It's a sort of 'knocking' noise, but im sure actual knock doesn't sound like this when revved. Sounds expensive, so i'd just like to see if anyone has ideas. I took 2 videos; one of the car idling and then in the second one i open the throttle a bit. Note the car still has good power (revs cleanly), and the fan spins cleanly (without hitting anything).

I've had suggestions including belts and bearings. Any help appreciated guys.

idling

revving

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134774-engine-developed-a-weird-knocking/
Share on other sites

I have the same sound when the engine is ideling and cold. Its not as loud as that though and goes away when the engine heats up...

I have always figured that it was a big end baring on its way out, but its been doing it for a year now with no "engine go bang action"...

Sorry to say this buddy, but u've prolly got either a)a spun big end or b)bent rod.

ill try and find the vids i took of my r33 and my gtr when they made similar noises, and ill grab the pics of what was found when the r33 was stripped down.

:) what did the re-build cost you?

I binned it and sold off most of the useful parts- manifolds, turbo's etc and bought another one from Japan that I knew was freshly rebuilt with JUN pistons-cost about 4k landed. If I had of rebuilt here instead Id say no change from 7k with desent pistons/rods. You can do it cheaper depending on piston/rod choice. The rebuilt one I have now has copped a huge caining and has not missed a beat :P

I had this sound very recently (see the link), sounds pretty much the same to me.

Was perfect one day and sounded crook at startup the next. Had never used oil before and found that it was down to half dipstick when I checked it after the sound.

El Bee

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2468684

I'd have to agree with El Bee, its sounds like its in the top end a few sticky lifters maybe, try listening to it with a long screwdriver whilst the motor is idling, if it is that id be flushing it first then refill fill with clean oil and filter, also might be worth a look under the rocker cover for signs of coked up oil, just my 2 bobs worth, cheers

Good luck with it hope it isnt any more serious than that.

My initial thought was top end. All though I haven't heard an rb big end I can say it definitely doesn't sound like any big end i've heard before. Its too clacky sounding.

In fact the idling sounds exactly what my freshly built RB30 sounded like upon its initial start until the lifters pumped up. :)

Thanks guys, i can't seem to replicate the problem now, it purrs along just as before. I'll have to have a proper look around in the morning - i was in a rush to get to uni this morning so didn't really look at anything thoroughly.

It definitely isn't making any noise now though, hot or cold start.

edit: Oil level is fine, i'm thinking a lifter or two wasn't getting oil for whatever reason. I'll get more worried if it does it again..

Edited by govich

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...