Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

The final track day of the year will be on TUESDAY NOVEMBER 28. It will be a Full Day event, run as two half days.

This is set to be our biggest day of the year with some of the hottest cars from the top ten looking to do battle against the clock.

TIME ATTACK SHOOT OUT

We will be introducing a feature event for each half of the day called the TIME ATTACK SHOOT OUT. This event is designed for everyone to enter. You will nominate a lap time and have one hot lap to match it. The closest to their nominated time will win. If there is a draw there will be a Final Shoot Out to determine the winner. (You will have 1 warm up lap, 1 hot lap and 1 cool down lap.)

Cost of Entry $20

Prize Money will be 50% of the prize pool. (The other half will go towards new equipment)

Make sure you have a go!!

BOOKING

To make sure you have a spot reserved for the day, book in early. The last track day was booked out over a month before the event, and this one is set to book out faster with spots already reserved.

The format will be:

7:00am Arrive and get checked in.

7:45am Morning Driver Briefing

8:00am Clubman Circuit (3 sets of 7 laps)

10:50am Passenger Rides (2 groups of 6)

11:20am TIME ATTACK SHOOT OUT

12:00am National Circuit (2 sets of 7 laps)

12:45pm MORNING SESSION END

12:00pm Afternoon drivers arrive and get checked in.

12:45pm Afternoon Driver Briefing

1:00pm Sprint Circuit (3 sets of 7 laps)

3:50pm Passenger Rides (2 groups of 6)

4:10pm TIME ATTACK SHOOT OUT

4:40pm Sportsman Circuit (2 sets of 7 laps)

5:25pm AFTERNOON SESSION END

PASSENGER RIDES

The passenger rides will be available to the first 24 people (12 morning and 12 afternoon) who want them and have made full payment. This is a bonus.

There is strictly no overtaking. This session is for fun. If you overtake or drive too hard for any reason, you will be banned from future passenger sessions.

Your passenger is required to sign in and have the same protective clothing as the driver.

If your on the mailing list you will get the full details shortly, if not send me a PM with your name and email address and I'll add you to the list.

Paul

Edited by MountainRunner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135010-time-attack-november-28/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 153
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey sorry for the ignorance but is this at willowbank raceway? I'd really love to take my r33 on the track but i've only got limited work done to it. It's only got 186rwkw. would this be an issue? The suspension and wheels are done its just not that fast compared to track cars

r_speedfreak_r, as long as your car is well maintained, it will be fine... i've seen all sorts of cars out there running, from dead stock, to highly modified... doesn't matter if your car is modified for track work or not, you'll still have fun out there :ermm:

hey speedfreak it doesn't matter what you bring.. i should be attending this one (i only have 172rwkw), shit street tyres and i'm the first to admit i'm a crap driver but thats not important- i know i'll have as much fun as the guy that brings a 800hp track prep'd gtr :ermm:

Ill be there for ya Paul even if i have to call in sick...

HAHAHAHA

I nomanate for racing in the morning...

Then pit lane marshall in the afternoon...

Put me down Paul...

I want to attack the national track... Yeah Baby...

Im in Paul, will transfer the deposit to ya soon, full day, yes looks like a top 10 showdown for the final track day of the year is on....its gonna be even bigger than sept12th~~ hopefully weather will be good, track conditions will be tiptop, and we are all set for a big day!

Hey Col & J-Boy I've got you both down. I had a huge response today. I think your right J-Boy this will be our biggest event yet.

I hope everyone loves the Time Attack Feature Event.

speedfreak have a look at this link and check out the Car Model column. You will see everyone is welcome to track day !!

http://www.timeattack.com.au/hall_of_fame.php

Paul

ummm are you able to hold a spot cause i need some bloudy external transfer password...never sent money to an outside account before. Gotta wait 9-10 days before i get it...i dont want to miss a spot.

Where abouts in Brisbane are you Paul?

I will hold a spot for you while you get the transfer method sorted (morning or afternoon or both). I live out Jindalee way, so its a hike from the North side.

Guys, I have over 30 bookings in both the morning and afternoon. Get in if you are considering coming. Oh yea, don't forget to get a T-Shirt :)

Paul

hey can you put me down then. when do you need the money? if its raining will the day continue cause i dont really want to go around the track sidewards the whole way doing crap times. My mate loves track days but hes in an e46 318. can he enter all the same?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...