Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can these be imported at all? Looking to replace the daily in a few months with something a little nicer, but under $10k or so.

I have seen a mighty fine F31 around here, and it is definitely something different and not too ugly (unlike the usual jap 'pimp' cars).. I'd prefer one with the VG30DET if possible.

Are they at all possible to import under SEVS or would I have to go for the earlier 1988 models with the VG20DET and comply under 15 year rule?

Here is an example to gawk at..

M30A.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135210-nissan-f31-leopard/
Share on other sites

would be eligible for SEVS but it's the convincing a compliance workshop to apply for em only to sell a couple part that is difficult. far easier to bring in the 15 yr old ones. I love the pre 1988 2 door leopards :) they're cool... and they have VG20ET engines :( you can turf that and stick a VG30DETT in there pretty easily.

From memory the gloria is eligible under SEVS, and the newer leopard uses a different body on the same chassis (like the Mark II and Chasers do) so no reason why a compliance workshop can't apply for one as a variant... that is if you can find a compliancer who does Gloria/Cedrics.

Sounds good, thanx for the info. yeah, there is something cool about them, and they're pretty unique. Yotis up here has a really nice one.

That's an option I guess, bring in an older one with the 2L, and put a 300zx engine in.. might go alright :D

hmmmm..

my dad has a "nissan bluebird maxima" - vg20et - its basically the same chasis as the american nissan maxima (U11 - vg30e - 1987) - but with the jap spec engine - he's looking to sell it if ur interested - its manual - had the engine changed with a fresher jap one not so long ago - think it has only 30k or so on the engine/gearbox - original factory clutch still. u can always drop in a vg30et since the american version came with the vg30e - or possibly a vg30dett?

anyway it looks similar to the leopard - just look for some usa pics of the u11 maxima - and lemme know if ur interested.

U11's are FWD I believe. Sure it's an U11 ? Does it have 2 doors or 4? Could be interested in a couple of months if its the RWD.

There is the Infinity M30 which is the equivelent of the Leopard in USA ?

Like funky says, I think only 1989 and later (or very last 1988 models) had the VG30..

I thought they only come as auto as well (300zx tranny and some R31 or S13 manual parts probably fit)

U11's are FWD I believe. Sure it's an U11 ? Does it have 2 doors or 4? Could be interested in a couple of months if its the RWD.

There is the Infinity M30 which is the equivelent of the Leopard in USA ?

Like funky says, I think only 1989 and later (or very last 1988 models) had the VG30..

I thought they only come as auto as well (300zx tranny and some R31 or S13 manual parts probably fit)

yeh its FWD - but im sure the zbox would bolt up and if u took the rest of the driveline u could make it a RWD if u really wanted to.

its a 4 door - back doors are smaller and all windows are piller-less so its pretty sporty for a sedan.

vg30e and vg30et came out from 84 to 89 in z31, u11 maxima and others(?) - vg30de and vg30det and tt came out 1988 - early versions were the cima and rarer z31 - 1989 saw its common use in the z32 and u12(?) maxima.

think all maximas were FWD - zeds were RWD -

Edited by RB20_ZED
Can these be imported at all? Looking to replace the daily in a few months with something a little nicer, but under $10k or so.

I have seen a mighty fine F31 around here, and it is definitely something different and not too ugly (unlike the usual jap 'pimp' cars).. I'd prefer one with the VG30DET if possible.

Really like the look of these, that classic late 80's early 90's styling (yeah alright I'm old too...) and with a bit of a 50mm drop, decent rims and rubber they'd be an even better looking cruiser.

  • 2 weeks later...

I had a Y31 gloria with a VG20DET in it quad cam V6 same bore and stroke and compression as an RB20.

put an RB25 turb on it and nice exhaust and it went really well. the F31 is also a nice car but nowhere near as cool as the Y31.

Get a Y31. and the VG20DET is a great little engine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...