Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theres lots of posts about spark plugs on here but ive got a question.. :D

R33 gtst usual mods standard turbo..

Re-moved "iridium nismo 8" spark plugs from car (god knows what these are? 0.8 gap?)

Put in NGK Iridium BKR5EIX-11, gapped to 0.8 (i know you're not supposed to gap iridiums).

I wanted to put in BKR6EIX, but id allready bought the BKR5EIX.

Running with the BKR5EIX 's the engine wasnt even coming onto boost it was just pinging and spluttering everywhere.. with low down torque not really there either..

I put the Old iridium nismo 8 plugs back in and all is now good and back to normal..

So im guessing the Iridium BKR5EIX (5 heat rating) is too hotter a plug?

I know i should have the 6 heat range, BKR6EIX, for the kind of mods i have, but would the 5 really do this kind of thing to the performance of my 33?

Any feedback would be great.

Looks like ive just wasted $100 on the damn wrong heat range sprakies.. :( , Dumbass.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

Theres lots of posts about spark plugs on here but ive got a question.. :nuke:

R33 gtst usual mods standard turbo..

Re-moved "iridium nismo 8" spark plugs from car (god knows what these are? 0.8 gap?)

Put in NGK Iridium BKR5EIX-11, gapped to 0.8 (i know you're not supposed to gap iridiums).

I wanted to put in BKR6EIX, but id allready bought the BKR5EIX.

Running with the BKR5EIX 's the engine wasnt even coming onto boost it was just pinging and spluttering everywhere.. with low down torque not really there either..

I put the Old iridium nismo 8 plugs back in and all is now good and back to normal..

So im guessing the Iridium BKR5EIX (5 heat rating) is too hotter a plug?

I know i should have the 6 heat range, BKR6EIX, for the kind of mods i have, but would the 5 really do this kind of thing to the performance of my 33?

Any feedback would be great.

Looks like ive just wasted $100 on the damn wrong heat range sprakies.. :) , Dumbass.

Yah think you have got yourself some hot plugs, put it ip in ebay and sell at half the cost. At least you can recover something back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2517133
Share on other sites

you can't go past the plugs with the code BCPR6ES. they are only copper and are about $3 each (better than about $20 each for iridiums). i've had mine in for about 10,000kms at between 12 and 14psi and they haven't missed a beat. it had iridiums in there and they were dead after 20,000ks. i'm going to change them again at the next oil change (at $24 a set, why not)

but a guy i know put platinum plugs in (heat range 5) and it pings like a bitch, and pops and farts. he took me for a spin in it last night, but he wouldn't listen when i told him his plugs where wrong (1 of those know-it-all types).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2522759
Share on other sites

you can't go past the plugs with the code BCPR6ES. they are only copper and are about $3 each (better than about $20 each for iridiums). i've had mine in for about 10,000kms at between 12 and 14psi and they haven't missed a beat. it had iridiums in there and they were dead after 20,000ks. i'm going to change them again at the next oil change (at $24 a set, why not)

but a guy i know put platinum plugs in (heat range 5) and it pings like a bitch, and pops and farts. he took me for a spin in it last night, but he wouldn't listen when i told him his plugs where wrong (1 of those know-it-all types).

Sometime cheap is not necessary bad and expensive is not necessary good. The key is to choose the correct form, fit and function that cater to your engine. The BCP6ES are without the V groove, choose the BKR6E-11 (gap down when necessary) which cost around there too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2522802
Share on other sites

It all depends on the mods you have.

a mildly modded car shouldn't have major issues running a 5 as they are the stock replacement plug.

A 6 heat range plug is a good move with more boost up to about 1.1bar/16psi. bcpr6es/bkr6es is .8 copper out of the box, bcpr6e or bk.. is the v groove option.

A 7 over that up to low 20psi

I'd start with a 6 bcpr6es as they are cheap enough. If no good then make a few enquiries about the nismo plugs and try a copper 7.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2522889
Share on other sites

cheers fellas..

Yeh ill try the bcpr6es hopefully the 6 heat range is better. didnt realise a 5 heat range would be so S!@T

I might even keep the old nismo 8 iridiums in there and just clean them gently..

Ive got the old typical coilpack hairline cracks too, might fix them up as ill probably need too one day anyway..

thanks for the confirmation about the plugs.

Lata.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2539658
Share on other sites

hey i am more or less going through the same thing i have been using 7es in my 33 and have had no real problems went to enquire about iridiums and could get them for about $18.oo each and the same for platiniums but could not get them in 7,s ended back with old faithful bcp7es for grand total of $21.00 ,cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2540931
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Don't know if this has been said but you can't compare all plugs by their number e.g. 5 or 6 as some plug manufacturers hotter and colder plugs ranges move in opposite directions.

yeh cheers, i know, i was just talking about ngk's.

ill be going the $21 option too.. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2570605
Share on other sites

mine was missing on boost...heat shrinked my coils and gapped my plugs at 0.8 that fixed it...then turned the boost up to around 12psi and it started missing again so i went for the bcpr7es gapped at 0.8 and everytihing is now sweet! id definatly recomend going for the 7...+ it costs like 24 bux!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2570952
Share on other sites

i'm using the bcpr6es and i'm running 14psi with stock coils. they pop and fart on the very odd occasion, but they are about 7000km old. i'm going to go to the 7 heat range on the new plugs, just to get the heat down.

Remember to check your colder plug for fouling...

NGK FAQ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2571819
Share on other sites

You can't go wrong with the BCPR6ES plugs. I had a set of splitfire plugs in mine which cost around the $20 a plug mark. They lasted all of 3 weeks before they started missing. Then the car sat for 2 weeks in the spray shop and i went to pick it up and it wouldn't start!

A trip down to Autobarn and 6 x BCPR6ES later and they haven't missed a beat. This was in October last year as well so they're probably due for a change! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135310-hot-spark-plugs/#findComment-2574762
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...