Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have a bunch of stuff I need gone as I am going on Holidays this Saturday & need cash desperately. If stuff isnt sold by Saturday night I will be holding on to it..

All items are located on Sydney's Northern Beaches but I work in Pyrmont so you can meet me here also.

Prices are negotiable as I need cash reallllly bad.

1x BRAND NEW in box HD stage 2 pbr Clutch kit for RB20/RB25 - worth over $650 - sell for $300

1x Autometer Pro Comp Exhaust Temp Gauge - 2 5/8, No sender but has instructions & extra fittings $70

1x Autometer Ultra Lite Fuel level Gauge - 2 5/8, No sender but has instructions & moutning bracket $60

1x Speco Boost Gauge - 2 5/8, Comes with some plumbing $50

1x Autometer Autogage Monster Tacho - 5in, Black face. Comes with all wiring, Instructions & shiftlight $130

1x RB20 Igniter - Perfect Working condition - $100

1x Turbosmart Adjustable T-Piece - $50

1x 1L Custom Aluminium Surge Tank - $90

4x 16inch 4stud/Multi Concept 9 rims resprayed Tiger Mica, Good Tyres, perfect Burnout rims - $300

1x 180sx Standard Steering Wheel CA18 - $30

Pics of all stuff to come this afternoon.

I can be contacted via email [email protected] or on 0402 813 018

Thanks

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136059-fs-gauges-igniter-new-hd-clutch/
Share on other sites

1x Autometer Pro Comp Exhaust Temp Gauge - 2 5/8, No sender but has instructions & extra fittings $70

1x Autometer Ultra Lite Fuel level Gauge - 2 5/8, No sender but has instructions & moutning bracket $60

1x Autometer Autogage Monster Tacho - 5in, Black face. Comes with all wiring, Instructions & shiftlight $130

Pictures to [email protected] please

  • 2 weeks later...

hey man this is me i just called you about them guages. you have my details send away.

thanx nice doing business..

1x Autometer Pro Comp Exhaust Temp Gauge - 2 5/8, No sender but has instructions & extra fittings $70

1x Autometer Ultra Lite Fuel level Gauge - 2 5/8, No sender but has instructions & moutning bracket $60

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...