Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the description states, I am after an intercooler to suit a R33 Sedan that does not require the cutting of a hole under the battery tray. I am fairly new to the Skyline scene, but I believe that the ARC and Blitz kits do not require cutting, are there any others?

If it is out of the blitz and the arc, what would people recommend, as they are a similar price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136705-another-intercooler-thread/
Share on other sites

I would recommend the Blitz LM kit... or the older style Trust kits as both sets of piping goes through the turbo side of the car, meaning you do not require to cut a hole beneath the battery tray, the piping then wraps over the engine to your intake manifold.

Its a slightly longer piping path but its much of a muchness really and a hell of a lot easier to install.

Keep in mind any intercooler kit with both of the intercooler outlets facing the same way (meaning the piping sort of wraps under the cooler for your intake side) will work in the same way so you are not limited to just ARC or Blitz there are a lot of kits out there that offer this configuration.

Example pics:

hybrid_gt_spec.jpg

A kit like this means cutting your battery tray.

R32015.jpg

That is my actual engine bay see how both sets of piping come through the turbo side of the engine bay?

r32pictures0382arrp6.jpg

And there is the cooler configuration apologies for the crappy quality phone pic :nuke:

The blue goes to the plenum etc, the red to the turbo, notice how the blue sides outlet on the cooler faces down and back towards the turbo side of the engine bay... thats what your looking for :D

Hopefully that helps you out, and helps me out... coz the bitches are gonna FLOCK to me once they see my l337 mspaint skillz0rz :) hahahaha

if you go the trust or blitz setup, don't set it up like benigno. you want the pipe that goes under the cooler to be the hot pipe, and the short pipe to be the cold pipe. you want the cold air to have the shortest possible path so it doesn't have time to heat up again.

also since cold air is denser, if the cold pipe is longer it will have more lag, since it takes more air to fill up the extra length of pipe.

if you go the trust or blitz setup, don't set it up like benigno. you want the pipe that goes under the cooler to be the hot pipe, and the short pipe to be the cold pipe. you want the cold air to have the shortest possible path so it doesn't have time to heat up again.

also since cold air is denser, if the cold pipe is longer it will have more lag, since it takes more air to fill up the extra length of pipe.

Which is how mine is setup. I use the stock IC piping within the engine bay, pop the hood and it looks stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...