Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm glad I came across this thread.

Since taking ownership of my R34 GTR (with Exedy twin plate clutch), I have observed exactly the noises that were mentioned above:

On idle, sometimes there would be a loudish clunking noise sounding from the gearbox area and when depressing the clutch pedal the noise would go away. When the car was turned off the rattle would occur as the engine shut off.

I was pretty worried that it was some clutch/gearbox related issue - but now know it is a common fault with this combination of gearbox/clutch.

Also I believe that my mechanic may have used Redline fluids in the past, so I'll pass this info on and get some of the Castrol Transmax Z or Nissan Getrag Gearbox fluid for future use.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ive been using redline shockproof oil (smurfs blood) in all our gtr boxes including the getrag whores.

Forsome what of over 8 years now and i cant stress how much i have never had a problem with this oil .

Atf is what they reccomend , but i have seen it destroy high power output cars gearboxes due to the gears breaking through the oil and contacting each other thus heating up destroying the hardedning etc.

I have never seen this with smurfs blood, as the Gears usally break before the oil on the gears is thinned enough for them to contact.

all myths aside, i would not use just normal atf, maybe the one they reccomend But i can not stess enough that redline shock proof is the only way to go ,

my 2 cents.

  • 10 months later...

Hey guys, is the view on this subject still the same? The bulk of this thread is from 2006, so what are people using in their R34 GTR Getrag 6spd boxes these days?

- Nissan Matic D

- Redline Super Lightweight Shockproof

- Motul Gear FF LSD

- Castrol Transmax Z

- Other?

Cheers,

Ed

The 'box in mine is quite noisy when it's cold. Hard to describe the noise, it's kind of whining (not like straight cut gears).

2500rpm or below, just prodding along until car is up to temp. The noise is usually gone after 5min of driving. Is this normal?

Also i heard a few people say the gearbox rattles when they shut the car off - i had this as well, until i actually engaged a gear when turning the car off. It doesn't rattle anymore.

Ed - We catching up soon or what? :P

The 'box in mine is quite noisy when it's cold. Hard to describe the noise, it's kind of whining (not like straight cut gears).

2500rpm or below, just prodding along until car is up to temp. The noise is usually gone after 5min of driving. Is this normal?

Also i heard a few people say the gearbox rattles when they shut the car off - i had this as well, until i actually engaged a gear when turning the car off. It doesn't rattle anymore.

Ed - We catching up soon or what? :P

Yeah man, here too! the first 2 gears has a slight whine until it reaches operating temp and the rattle is from the upgraded clutch u have; very common problem which all aftermarket clutch manufacturers mention.

The rattle is annoying bt jst push the clutch in and turn the car off and u wont get it.

hope your car is going well huy, damn beautiful!!

It rattles quite a bit in traffic, but it doesn't bother me at all.

Car is going great, cheers. No problems thus far (touch wood!) All credit to GT Auto Garage for a mint car.

Thought you were selling yours, no?

It rattles quite a bit in traffic, but it doesn't bother me at all.

Car is going great, cheers. No problems thus far (touch wood!) All credit to GT Auto Garage for a mint car.

Thought you were selling yours, no?

Great to hear, i still have some of your cars pics as my desktop wallpaper :P

Not selling mine anymore, wanted too at one stage cos it was my only car but i bought back my e46 BMW and a little getz as my daily's so the GTR stays as my fun/weekend car.

I get the rattle too occasionally, dosent bug me too much...jst put the stereo on a lil louder hehe!

The 'box in mine is quite noisy when it's cold. Hard to describe the noise, it's kind of whining (not like straight cut gears).

2500rpm or below, just prodding along until car is up to temp. The noise is usually gone after 5min of driving. Is this normal?

Also i heard a few people say the gearbox rattles when they shut the car off - i had this as well, until i actually engaged a gear when turning the car off. It doesn't rattle anymore.

Ed - We catching up soon or what? :thumbsup:

I think that's pretty normal Huy. I don't really recognise it on mine, but my box is generally quieter when its warmed up and it also makes the rattling sound when turning the car off, just like all other Getrag owners. Best to get your fluids checked though as I just changed mine. My Nismo twin plate is not as noisy as I'd thought, which is a good thing.

Yes, catchup soon dude, just busy as with work and stuff...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...