Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My skyline has a gt3540rbb, injectors, plenum, power fc etc its kinda laggy in the lower revs so i was thinkin to install a wet nitros kit so it will pic up quicker on the lower revs and i just want to know if it would it be a good idea, has anyone tried it? anyway let me know wat you guys think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136903-want-an-opinion-on-nitros/
Share on other sites

My skyline has a gt3540rbb, injectors, plenum, power fc etc its kinda laggy in the lower revs so i was thinkin to install a wet nitros kit so it will pic up quicker on the lower revs and i just want to know if it would it be a good idea, has anyone tried it? anyway let me know wat you guys think.

definately. whether or not ur internals are standard just use a 50 shot. it will get the boost up nice and quick. use the nitrous for this reason not so much a hp gainer.

Its not street legal.

Like other people, I'm wondering about x_pac's application. Nitrous doesn't last too long, so you either need big bottles or to use it sparingly.

If your car only lives life a quarter mile at a time its not an issue, but if you're planning on using N2O every time you take off from a set of lights its not the best option.

yea the plan is to just use it for 1/4mile not of every single traffic light. does anyone know how many 1/4 miles a 50 shot nos tank can do?

sigh...

how big of a bottle?

i mean, how long is a piece of string

What do u think? A street is designed for cars to get from A to B not designed to fly from A to B.

If that is the case, then we have no need for 300+rwkw cars either, but they are still legal.

Ahh well, least this is the first time someone on SAU has attempted to patronise me.

Just because a car has more power than it needs to get up to the speed limit, doesn't mean that the owners have to drive it like they stole it.

There are plenty of high powered cars on the road, most of which are driven sensibly.

Something as unpredictable as N2O isn't safe/suitable for road use in any situation.

Something as unpredictable as N2O isn't safe/suitable for road use in any situation.

While I dont see the need to use Nitrous on the street, the above statement is completely untrue. Nitrous is neither unsafe nor unpredictable. It is however, illegal to use on public streets.

Adrian

While I dont see the need to use Nitrous on the street, the above statement is completely untrue. Nitrous is neither unsafe nor unpredictable. It is however, illegal to use on public streets.

If it was safe, there would be no reason for it to be illegal.

If someone is too tight/stupid to take it to a track, where else are they going to play with it?

I know I certainly don't want to have some idiot playing with nitrous while they're driving next to me.

...especially if it's the first time they've played with it, simply because they won't know what to expect from it.

I don't for an instant believe that anyone who is silly enough to use it on the street would have the ability to do so in a 'safe' manner.

Add into the equation fun things like nitrous backfires, DIY installations, and who could forget the genius who connected his bottle heater to a constant 12v and went off and forgot about it? Not much different to leaving a car sitting in the hot Australian sun.

Anyhoo, with the mods listed above, I didn't see x_pac28 mention which fuel pump was being used?

Formula to figure out usage:

0.8 lbs N2O X 10 seconds = 100HP

eg: If the system is jetted for 100HP it will use 0.8 lbs of nitrous for every 10 seconds of usage.

...and a reminder of why this is not a toy. :P

explodey.jpg

You will get 8 0r 9 passes on a fifty with a 10lb bottle. you pay about $110 a fill.. bit expensive to go blasting around on the street with. but will definately give you the midrange you are after. have a customer car similar to yours, ran 11.75 @121mph on 21psi. Put 75 bottle on it and it ran 11.66 @123mph on 15psi with 4 deg total timing out.

yea the plan is to just use it for 1/4mile not of every single traffic light. does anyone know how many 1/4 miles a 50 shot nos tank can do?
Edited by BezerkR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...