Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

my tyre guy wants to get rid of my r34 GTT rims, asked me to post here

rear tyres are shot, needs new tred but fronts are brand new. few little scratches on them nothing huge

im lookin for around $450 for the lot

call rob at the tyre factory tingalpa, he is willing to post them interstate with or without tyres, price is the same as it is cheap as

anyway the number is (07) 3890 5222

tell him jake put u onto him

Edited by Jaker34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137040-standard-r34-rims-tyres/
Share on other sites

hey guys

i'm trading in my standard GTT rims to the tyre factory at tingalpa, he asked me if anyone would be interested in them i traded them for $400 so he has to make his overhead on them so i guess about $450 with tyres, very soft compound, would be great for track use, they are snow tyres tho so whatever flotes your boat.

the guys name is rob and the number is 3890 5222 in brisbane tingalpa

let me know if anyone is interested

pm me or email me on [email protected]

Edited by Jaker34
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...