Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes....for sure...u could just feel the diff......the 1st day u reset it....the ECU re-map at highest preformance.during leaning...& later on...it keep changing until it go the best setting. It may be a little bit diff than the 1st drive but I could say it MUST be better than B4....easier to start.....better acce respon...fuel consumption.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/#findComment-274735
Share on other sites

hey guys here is caption from skylines downunder to doin it the ole 1,2,3 step, to better performance and fuel economy.........and yes they both work as i have done both steps and it is all good!

ECU Reset:

This is a very good procedure to follow, especially after making any changes to the car, for example after fitting a new exhaust, or air filter, or just every couple of months as part of a service routine.

To reset the ECU, disconnect your car's battery for 24 hours. This will reset the ECU to the factory defaults.

I have also heard that this can be done more quickly by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake pedal (discharging any residual power in the car's electrical system), and then reconnecting the battery.

- It has been recently posted that this technique can help if done prior to a run down a drag strip, with a fuel tank of octane boosted petrol or #1 racing fuel.

- Apparently when the car is started for the very first time, the factory ECU advances the timing by about two degrees, and monitors the knock sensor. If any detonation is detected, the ECU will retard the timing by three degrees. It will continue advancing and retarding by progressively smaller increments. After a time, the ECU is doing the advance / retard by only tenths of a degree, and any power gains resulting from a tank of #1 racing fuel for example will take a long time to show, and not be noticeable. Resetting the ECU will cause the ECU to very quickly re-map the ignition curves when the car is restarted. The poster advises disconnecting the battery, pressing the brake pedal, and reconnecting the battery prior to staging.

A number of Skylines Downunder Club members have done this to their Skylines with good results. One friend reports a smoother drive, and more free revving. First impressions on it car is that it starts quicker (not that it ever cranked for more than a second or two), feels smoother in the low rev range, and seems to have a little more torque in low speed acceleration. Possibly better fuel economy also. It pays to reset after each modification to the vehicle, or soon after purchase to begin with...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/#findComment-279103
Share on other sites

You can reset your ECU by: under the dash near the fuse box there is a grey plug. Theres two wires all by them selves. While the cars ignition is on short the two wires out for 2 seconds. This goes into diagnostic mode. You will see the check engine light flash. It should flash 5 times quickly and 5 times slowly consecutively, this means your car is all OK. By doing this it also resets your ECU and without all the problems like alarm, reseting clocks and radios.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/#findComment-288123
Share on other sites

ah icic

oh and i can't seem to find the visual led display on the ecu

i manage to remove the kick plate(a big bitch of a job cos it feels like you almost break the damn thing)

and i pulled out the ecu

and only thing i see on it is the lil idle control thingy and next to it a small oval hole with clear film covering it. is that supposed to be the led display? cos i dun see any lights showing. or is it the leds inside the box? do i have to take apart the plates cos that can be a bitch with the loom cable in the way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13711-ecu-reset/#findComment-288523
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...