Jump to content
SAU Community

Water pump and belts

JimX

By JimX,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I've done a search on water pumps, and it seems that at the 100k km service it's a good time to change the water pump. I'm just thinking though, why not just wait until it starts leaking? That is the normal sign that the pump has worn out and needs to be replaced. It should be good for a few hundred km after that so you shouldn't have to worry about being stranded anywhere, once you realise that it's leaking then just top up the radiator and replace the pump at the next opportunity.

Is there any downside to this? I had a leaking water pump on my Commodore which I noticed after it started leaking but I drove it several hundred km before I got it fixed under warranty.

Also, when my alternator belt broke on the Commodore, I noticed afterwards that it looked very worn out, and was all cracked and missing about half its teeth! If a belt "looks" ok, I'm thinking that it shouldn't need to be changed. (incidentally, it broke when trying to jump-start another car. The extra strain on the electrical system did it)

I ask all this obviously because my car is coming up to the 100k mark, and I don't want to go overboard replacing things that I don't have to at this stage. For all I know some of them could have been replaced along with the timing belt a couple of thousand km before I bought the car. For example, the Commodore's alternator belt had done about 80000km, and the Skyline's belts look a lot better than it did despite having more km on it. I'm pretty sure they've been changed at some point previously.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13718-water-pump-and-belts/
Share on other sites
Darker Enthusiast

Darker

Posted
Posted

Wish I had the luxury of chosing to replace my water pump. It went just after 100k, and went quickly. I lost about half my coolant on the way to the mechanic, which apparently can happen (I always thought they leaked slow)

So if its working, dont worry about it, but when it stops, get it done ASAP.

My 2c

Brody Experienced

Brody

Posted
Posted

My bearings seized and smashed into my radiator. Took out all belts, radiator, balancer and a few other things i can't remember,

It went round 90k, and the belts were changed by another owner at 70 or so. If he had of paid another $114, i wouldn't have spent 1500. Though at least im running with a brand new gtr radiator now :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...