Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

some bits forsale, all from my r32 gtr. I live in Brisbane.

some parts I do not know its name, if u see in pics, make me a offer.

stock bits

1.compresor air conditioning..............$ 100 (sold )

2.gearbox..... good condition...........$500 ( SOLD)

3. gtr igniter.........$50

4. stock ex. manifold........$50

5. engine mount .........right side and left side....... ( SOLD)

6. stock factory suspension.............$150

7. stock suspension with super low king spring.........$250 (sold)

8. cluth booster..............$50

9. engine wiring loom.............$150

10. front hub..................$50 for both side.

11. aftermarket front pipe. two 2.5 inch, one 3inch.........$100

12. rear brake with rotors.............$200

13. rb26 short motor (need rebuild bcz first three cylinder had scrape mark), come with water pump and oil pump........SOLD

Interior

1. center gauge..........$40 (SOLD)

2. center console box........$30

3. driverside air vent...$30

4.door trim.....$70 for drive side, $50 for passenger side.

5. floor carpet.........$50

6. roof lining............$50

7. roof lining light.......front $20 , rear $20

8.rear trim.......excellent condition....$50 each

9.sun visor.........$ 40 for both side.

10. glove box......$40.

11. r32gtst dash surround...$50

shell parts

1. passenger side front gaurd.......good condition, no damage $200

2.passenger door with glass ........$120

3. driver side mirror, good condition.......$40, passenger side mirror, broken...$ 10

others

1. steering wheel column.........$100

2.rear washer motor............$50

3. front washer motor.......$30

4. washer water bottle with two pump............$50

IF U NEED THESE PARTS, PLEASE GIVE ME PM.

IF U THINK PRICE IS NOT REASONABLE, GIVE ME OFFER.

THANKS FOR INTERESTING.

Brian.

.

post-11001-1160031143.jpg

post-11001-1160031295.jpg

post-11001-1160031398.jpg

post-11001-1160031440.jpg

post-11001-1160031524.jpg

post-11001-1160031563.jpg

post-11001-1160031606.jpg

post-11001-1160031691.jpg

post-11001-1160031722.jpg

post-11001-1160031764.jpg

post-11001-1160031804.jpg

post-11001-1160113623.jpg

post-11001-1160113669.jpg

post-11001-1160308632.jpg

post-11001-1160308674.jpg

post-11001-1160308731.jpg

post-11001-1160308771.jpg

Edited by Midnight Racer
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...