Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey I am spraying my car in a few weeks and im still trying to decide if i want put an aftermarket front bar on e.g. 400r gtr ect just wanting to no if its just going to scrape eveytime i go in a drive way or go over a speed hum or wot ever cars lowered not crazy low but id say 1.5 2 inches from standard any advice would be good did a search but couldn't find any thing I just don’t want to spry it then have to do it again the 1st time I drive it

regards dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137566-front-bar-gutters-speed-humps/
Share on other sites

Fibreglass is a ridiculous material to make front bars out of, every one who has them has complained that they crack, or the mounting points break, on a lowered car you're just getting that much closer to wrecking one, there other materials that do a better job, MDF I think its called.

i have a fibreglass front bar, and my car is lowered. i bought the bar from a wreckers cheap cause it was stuffed. we just patched it up and put it on, but we also reinforced the base of it cause we knew it was going to scrub out. it hasn't cracked yet <touches wood>.

Fibreglass is a ridiculous material to make front bars out of, every one who has them has complained that they crack, or the mounting points break, on a lowered car you're just getting that much closer to wrecking one, there other materials that do a better job, MDF I think its called.

Haha, FRP is still a fiberglass product. Pretty much all aftermarket front bars are made from fiberglass.

O and I mite add have you ever tried to repair a smashed/broken Oem/plastic front bar mate? I'll take the fiberglass to repair thanks.

Edited by Silent
hey I am spraying my car in a few weeks and im still trying to decide if i want put an aftermarket front bar on e.g. 400r gtr ect just wanting to no if its just going to scrape eveytime i go in a drive way or go over a speed hum or wot ever cars lowered not crazy low but id say 1.5 2 inches from standard any advice would be good did a search but couldn't find any thing I just don’t want to spry it then have to do it again the 1st time I drive it

regards dave

I think mine is lowered 1.5 inches, and with the 400R bar on, it is 100mm in most places. (Legal in NSW).

Yes it scrapes on speedhumps.

Yes it scrapes on driveways.

Yes you have to take everything at an angle.

After a few weeks you learn what is too big and what it can handle. My bar is hard but is flexible and I can put money on it that being a bit flexible has saved it from snapping a few times.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...