Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I disagree with your comments on shootout mode,

My mates car made 214rwhp in shootout mode and 250somethin rwhp on a dyno that wasn't accredited but is a big company over here...

Each to their own i guess, all the serious modifiers use dyno's that are very close to each other over here with shootout mode :P

This came up on another website im on regually and we refer to this also!

http://www.xspeed.com.au/tech_features.php?tech_id=19

:no:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2571389
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Fuel curve looks like its been mapped, Stock Nissan maps are not like that so this may explain your good power figures.Rip the kick panal of and have a look.Fuel pump fault should have been lean at the higher power area of your curve but it does look like a tuner has been chasing 12-1 but factory they keep going down as far as 10s.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2571417
Share on other sites

I believe to be a dyno tuner with the software you all have to be within specific specs of each other, i know for a fact there is less than 5rwhp difference between the 2 dyno's ive been involved with :P

Yep down this way there's 3 dyno's that read within a few kw's of each other then one that generally runs v8's that both times the blokes had the car on the dyno its thrown out a figure that is ~30rwkw lower.

Same shootout mode; dyno operator said its probably just software version.

Another bloke I know has had his car on the same dyno twice; once it made 214rwkw another time 230rwkw as it was strapped down different.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2571455
Share on other sites

Well i guess your best goin on one dyno with one setting n stickin to that as you mod your car to see the actual diff's it makes on the same dyno to see how much your goin forward!

From what im told there few around me that peeps use are all fairly close to each other which is good for us

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2571471
Share on other sites

Mafia it sounds like your really f**ken Jealous of my RB20! Just becasue your RB25 wont produce that much power on those mods doesnt mean you have to have a cry!

And if you actually READ! I wrote that I have a R34 Turbo!! How about you put up your Dyno reading and your Mods and lets see what you get?

actually, I'm not having a cry, I'm having a laugh.

I had a RB25, PowerFC, FMIC, standard turbo, exhaust, etc. Made 209rwkw. Ran 105mph down the quarter, and was more than capable of running 13's all day everyday, and low 13's with a good launch.

But the time don't mean shit, I ran 105mph. I bet any money, my 210rwkw running 105mph, your factory ECU and bullshit 200rwkw will barely be able to scrape 100mph.

Dynos are a tuning tool. But somtimes, the figures are just complete bullshit, because dyno operators see people like you coming, bung in some high figures, and then you tell all of your mates, and they go there, get high bullshit figures, and yeah, the dyno operator has the last laugh because he has all of your money, and your down the track wondering why your "200rwkw" is only running 14's and 100mph.

I think that sums it up nicely.

Oh, and I'm not jealous... I'm running GT30 on the side of my car, its now making 250rwkw+. and running 12's with 112mph+.

Maybe I should bring my car to your dyno... It would make 400rwkw eh? (the funny thing is, it would still only run 12's and 112mph+ :) )

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2573057
Share on other sites

actually, I'm not having a cry, I'm having a laugh.

I had a RB25, PowerFC, FMIC, standard turbo, exhaust, etc. Made 209rwkw. Ran 105mph down the quarter, and was more than capable of running 13's all day everyday, and low 13's with a good launch.

But the time don't mean shit, I ran 105mph. I bet any money, my 210rwkw running 105mph, your factory ECU and bullshit 200rwkw will barely be able to scrape 100mph.

Dynos are a tuning tool. But somtimes, the figures are just complete bullshit, because dyno operators see people like you coming, bung in some high figures, and then you tell all of your mates, and they go there, get high bullshit figures, and yeah, the dyno operator has the last laugh because he has all of your money, and your down the track wondering why your "200rwkw" is only running 14's and 100mph.

I think that sums it up nicely.

Oh, and I'm not jealous... I'm running GT30 on the side of my car, its now making 250rwkw+. and running 12's with 112mph+.

Maybe I should bring my car to your dyno... It would make 400rwkw eh? (the funny thing is, it would still only run 12's and 112mph+ )

ok dude i have run my car on serveral dynos in perth and it only varies around 10 rwhp difference on the dyno's. my car pulled its expected power on the dyno so y do you say that it is dodgee when i ran 5 minutes before hand? as you can see non of the figures have been un realisticly adjusted at the bottom of the dyno. i can also tell you that his car is quicker than mine that is running an rb25... we will run it at the plex and i will place money that it will easly break the 100mph barrier and get mid 13's. i know this coz my car averages mid 13's and his car feels as quick as mine and has no troubles keeping up.

look im not wanting to start a shit fight or anything and i understand that i dyno is a tunning tool. When it is run down the 1/4 times will be posted

Edited by kamakazi
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2573196
Share on other sites

It should be in the LOW 13's or high 12's.

Remember it has a lot less weight than an R33, thats a key factor in it "feeling fast".

As for shootout, its been covered many many times before so you can go searching for it.

It adjusts the figures incorrectly, plain and simple.

Its same dyno, same day... or results cant be compared to the nitty gritty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2573242
Share on other sites

ok dude i have run my car on serveral dynos in perth and it only varies around 10 rwhp difference on the dyno's. my car pulled its expected power on the dyno so y do you say that it is dodgee when i ran 5 minutes before hand? as you can see non of the figures have been un realisticly adjusted at the bottom of the dyno. i can also tell you that his car is quicker than mine that is running an rb25... we will run it at the plex and i will place money that it will easly break the 100mph barrier and get mid 13's. i know this coz my car averages mid 13's and his car feels as quick as mine and has no troubles keeping up.

look im not wanting to start a shit fight or anything and i understand that i dyno is a tunning tool. When it is run down the 1/4 times will be posted

I'm not trying to start a fight either, but just remember - My argument is based solely on the fact that you are running a factory and un touched ecu.

If its chipped or whatever - then your results could be fairly accurate.

I'll still interested in the 1\4 times, and the terminal speed. Keep us posted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2573259
Share on other sites

Haha yeah, well if ya live in Perth you should come down to Hyperdrive at the next shootout and see what you get. :ninja: Yeah im going to get a Quarter Mile time Hopefully next week when I get new tyres. I agree that its weird about the power output and it does seem like with that kind of power the ECU should of been tunned or remapped. Maybe someone before me got the ECU remapped or tuned...... not sure though.

Yeah we should drag at Kwinana next week kamakazi. See what quarter mile times we get :ninja:

Edited by r32matt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2573480
Share on other sites

Its around the mark.. even if it were reading 15rwkw high.. it would be what I would expect for mods boost turbo and stock ecu. So its not like its way way out. We must also remember the R32's stock ecu doesn't hit R&R like the R33 ecu's so they can be pretty much pushed until they hit fuel cut or most generally run out of fuel. :ninja:

Generally down here the R32's with r33 turbo's on 14psi tend to make around 190rwkw the injectors hit 100% duty.

Its known for the R34 turbo's to net approx another 10rwkw over the R33 turbo on the same boost.

So considering your afr's and boost your running.... I'd say it is reading a touch high. The attached dyno sheet was running a new pump, tuned ecu with injectors at 100% duty. Not to mention your almost making the same power as an R34 running the same boost. Now logic tells us the rb20det head flows considerably worse than the r34 head so you will need more boost to get near the same power figure.

My self.. simply bolting the same turbo etc on to an rb25 head I made similiar power on 5psi less boost.

Where does the R34 turbo make 12psi on the rb20?

Your run does appear to lack a little down low compared to the attached R32 running a R33 turbo so I'd assume its a tad more laggy than the one shown. In car it felt as if it came on hard around 4000rpm but was making decent boost from 3000rpm.

post-382-1160539405.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2573499
Share on other sites

This was my run on the exact same day, same dyno, same operators. Car is a R32 GTS-T with 3 inch turbo back (incl. 3" cat), FMIC, pod w/CAI, GTR fuel pump, standard turbo. It spikes to 13psi and drops off to 11-12 (bleed valve).

Thats the standard ECU doing its magic :P

I'm still yet to get hold of a laptop to check consult for the AFM maxing out but I think its just naturally rich for some unknown reason. Eeprom burner and a wideband should fix that when I get some more money :P

post-28866-1160552384.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2574423
Share on other sites

Frost.. Here's mine with similiar mods except stock intercooler and a little fpr bleeder to lean out the mixtures a tad. It was running 12.5psi with a bleeder. 12.5psi was the most it would hold with the bleeder. By leaning out the mixtures it picked up 10rwkw. :O

Yes it was done in third for what ever reason. Later when I had the FMIC fitted I had it run both in third and fourth and fourth made 4rwkw more power, not saying this dyno run would have done the same as initially on the same boost with only an fmic and in fourth gear it made 155rwkw. :P

post-382-1160562720.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2574845
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
I'm not trying to start a fight either, but just remember - My argument is based solely on the fact that you are running a factory and un touched ecu.

If its chipped or whatever - then your results could be fairly accurate.

I'll still interested in the 1\4 times, and the terminal speed. Keep us posted.

my rb20 made 253hp on one dyno then 251hp on another dyno with stock turbo, computer, and 1 bar of boost. it has also run a 13.5 @ 105mph. see it is possible.. i will post up the dyno graphs when i get a chance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2772615
Share on other sites

my rb20 made 253hp on one dyno then 251hp on another dyno with stock turbo, computer, and 1 bar of boost. it has also run a 13.5 @ 105mph. see it is possible.. i will post up the dyno graphs when i get a chance.

this is a rather old thread. But since you dug it up matt what times did you run in your car ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137660-dyno-run/page/3/#findComment-2773008
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...