Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to remove the fuel filter i used pliers, but i covered the fuel lines with a cloth so that the pliers wont cut into the fuel lines. howevere it is smart to have some new fuel lines on standby because ur fuel lines most likely would be 15 years old or so.

tip: b4 u remove the fuel filter make sure u drain all fuel out of the fuel system.do this by disconnecting the loom plug to the fuel pump in the boot of the car and start the car and wait for it to stall signifying it has burnt up all the fuel in the fuel lines going to the engine. ur fuel filter will still have a bit of fuel in it when u take it out though.

Thanks for the tip guys much appreciated. Might go with cutting and replacing the hose - damn clamp is on way too tight and i can get a screwdriver to it!

Oh yeah mate its down below the intake plenum near the firewall on the drivers side in a bracket.

hahah jus twist & pulling slowly.. and try get a flat head around the hose if its stuck.. dont try pulling it straight out it wont work lol

i did a soarer the other week and OMFG id do 100 r32 fuel filters before i do another one of those..

stock32 - knowign where the filter is is the least of your concerns.

Lol

When I did mine, the hose had sort of hardened over that bump in the fuel filter line. I don't know how the commpliance people managed to change it without changing the line, but they managed to.

I just wasn't game enough to pull it hard, becuase you know what happens when it lets go (blood, skin = nasty).

I just slit it with a knife and replaced it. Easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...