Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea, i'll go for the copper ones then. Thanks, wolverine and rev210!

rev210: NGK BCPR6ES are 6's, right? My current ones are 5.. which is why i want to replace them.

SITC... hmm. Are there any other companies which still manufacture them? It looks like a pretty neat tuning tool.

Edited by shoebox
  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You are quite wrong to assume that a 600x300x75 core is the right size for stock turbo equiped gtst. It isn't by a long shot. Granted the factory intercoolers core isn't great design wise and can be improved on but, the physical size of the core is pretty close to the right size for the airflow needs of a street/strip gtst.

when you and dozens of other skyline owners tell the world about going noticably better,I point you to the 'real world' measurements that say otherwise. Like peoples 1/4 mile times as basic indication of road going accelleration changes.

Bottom line is people have used the factory intercooler on stock turbo's to run into 12's. Conversly there is a very common phenomina of front mount equiped gtst's going slower than a stock car.

Go here to learn some facts you can apply to any intercooler equiped car. www.are.com.au

well the problem is that you have forgotten the fact that once the throttle is fully open and you are at full boost the stock cooler usually flows less than most front mounts. this means that the turbo has to work harder to flow the same amount of air.

also to compare a car with a front mount with to a completely different car with a front mount at the drags is pointless. to compare times you would have to have the same driver in the same car and do multiple runs with the stock cooler vs the front mount and work off average times. i'm yet to hear of anyone go to the drags with the stock cooler then go with a fmic and run slower, then put the stock cooler back on and run faster again.

i'm sure there are people getting into the 12's with the stock cooler, but there are also people doing it with a front mount.

all the size of a cooler changes is response.

the drag strip comparsion is not pointless at all

it is if you are comparing 2 different cars with 2 different setups, with 2 different drivers. there are too many factors. tyres, suspension, tyre pressure, clutch, rpm launched at, compression of the motor, etc.

here's an example. 2 cars run at the drags. 1 runs a 10.46 @ 131.3mph with a 60ft of 1.66

another car runs a 11.36 @ 119.3mph with a 60ft time of 1.648.

does this mean that the second car is more powerful because it got a better 60ft time? no it just means it got a better launch.

This is a quote from something SydneyKid once told me...

"It’s simple maths, if the engine is making 30% more power (= 30 % more airflow) then you can have 30% more volume in the inlet system and have the same response"

So with this logic if you are going to get a front mount make sure its one suited to your mods, power levels, psi etc & you cant go wrong but if you do like alot of people seem to do & get a massive front mount & piping suited to something with much more power than you have it will be an overkill an you might loose throttle response with little or no gains

My rule of thumb for intercoolers on a R33 GTST are. If you plan to keep the stock turbo (no high flowing etc.) The R34 GTT cooler is a good choice as its efficient for 200rwkw, cheep, easy to install, and you don’t sacrifice any throttle response.

This is not to say you wont benefit slightly from a larger cooler at this power level but the trade of is throttle response. Fact is though I didn’t find the response much different between the stocker and my hybrid super monster but many other people have noted a difference.

I believe the reason people sometimes find that the car is slower after the bigger intercooler install is the fact that it runs extra rich the ecu sees way more air and richens the mixtures. Get your AFR's sorted then you will notice a huge difference. The intercooler plus tune made a huge difference to my car.

Sure people have run 12's using the stock cooler, but what tires where they using, what suspension setup did they have, how good was the driver, what were the track conditions, there is much more to drag racing than power.

To do this properly get a car, same driver, suspention, tires, track conditions, stock cooler with engine management tuned to suit extra boost, exhaust etc. have 5 runs take the average time.

Keeping everything the same exept for a upgraded cooler and a ECU tune to suit the extra air flow. 5 runs take the average time.

Ill bet my bottom dollar the car with the upgraded cooler will be signifitly quicker.

cheers

Edited by Munna1

ok, well if you read the fine print, he went slower because of more axle tramp, and he had a lighter flywheel. so you could blame the slower times on the flywheel, as he didn't adjust his driving style to take into account the performance difference. a lighter flywheel is more enclined to make the car bog down off the line as it has less inertia, and has less chance of the clutch slipping. so if you try to launch at the same rpm as you did before it is going to act differently.

so even though he had an extra 35 or so kw at the top end, the bigger cooler magically made the dyno readout lie? so on the dyno he had more power, but on the road it just magically dissapeared?

on the 3rd visit he had much more power and was suffering from wheelspin. is due to the fmic being too big and making the car have less power so that instead of having more power and more traction it has less power and less traction? i think not. and look, they were all done on different days. so the later days may have been hotter, or the track might not have been as sticky, there may have been an oil down, or there may have been a headwind, and he used different tyres for some of the runs, and on the last lot he had different suspension. the list of holes in your theory of it being caused by the intercooler goes on.

find me some 1/4 runs done back to back on the same day with no other mods other than the cooler and i'll believe them.

well untill you provide actual proof of a cooler making a car slower, there is no point.

here i quote the simpsons.

lisa: i could claim this rock keeps tigers away.

homer: how can a rock do that?

lisa: well do you see any tigers around?

homer: i would like to buy that rock from you

you have found some drag times that suit your story and just used them. if there were no other variables then it would work, but there are more variables that could make a bigger difference to the times than just an intercooler. the only constant is the driver and the basic car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...