Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

i just installed a set of Deatschwerks 555cc injectors into my RB25DET.

the car starts but doesnt hold the idle and shuts down after a few seconds. Ive checked, theres no fuel leak or anything thats disconnected.

I followed paulr33's guide on how to change injector values in the PowerFC but im not even sure im correct.

The new injectors are 555cc with latency of 0.75 was what i was told from the guy who sold me these.

this is what i put:

Correction: 67%

New latency: +0.22

Please help!!

have you checked all connections? plugs? leads?

checked fuel lines? checked plenum/throttle body?

any sensor names highlighted in black? (black background)

what are the values for (at ON but not started)

AF-1

THRO

BOST

WTRT

02-1

EXTM

SETTING, AIRFLOW - whats set here?

have you checked all connections? plugs? leads?

checked fuel lines? checked plenum/throttle body?

any sensor names highlighted in black? (black background)

what are the values for (at ON but not started)

AF-1

THRO

BOST

WTRT

02-1

EXTM

SETTING, AIRFLOW - whats set here?

this is when the car is ON but not started.

AF-1 - IGN and ECC are black

THRO

BOST

WTRT

02-1 - NTR is black

EXTM

SETTING, AIRFLOW - number 3 ( i have a Z32 AFM)

put a wideband o2 sensor up the exhaust and check mixtures, maybe its lean or too rich?

also are the fue lines on the correct way on the rail entry/exit connections?

the car doesnt start up to meaure the mixtures

the fuel lines. i have it set up as from Fuel filter to the pipe that goes to the back of the fuel rail and the other hose from fuel pressure regulator to the other regulator looking thing above the fuel filter

the car doesnt start up to meaure the mixtures

the fuel lines. i have it set up as from Fuel filter to the pipe that goes to the back of the fuel rail and the other hose from fuel pressure regulator to the other regulator looking thing above the fuel filter

I know this sounds stupid, but when I did some work in that area I left the AAC valve unplugged and yeah, it wouldn't idle.

Plugged it in and off it went.

It was on there, just not pushed down enough for contact

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...