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New Rear Parcel Shelf! Template?

ix9

By ix9,
in Car Audio & Electrical

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ix9 Grand Master

ix9

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Posted

Hi Guys,

Chasing a template to follow for making a custom rear parcel shelf? I'm sick of the rattles from my 6" rears just "floating" on the rear parcel shelf (ugh!) and the gf just bought new rear speakers for her R33 too - might aswell make up 2 new parcel shelves while I'm at it!

Anyone have a template/measurements for this?

YES, I've searched but found squat!

Cheers

-Kym.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138511-new-rear-parcel-shelf-template/
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RANDY Veteran

RANDY

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I traced onto some thicker MDF. Used a drill, jigsaw, belt sander, hammer and chisel.

Getting the vent-holes right was a pain, and the thicker MDF doesn't allow the clips on the vents and wiper-cover to clip in, you just have to make it tight so they wedge in and stay there. I also put screws and washers into the little pipes that had those clamping washers on them. That worked a treat.

Had to belt-sand the edge of the MDF that goes against the rear window because the thickness of the wood was stopping it from sitting under the window correctly. I put a 30 degree angle on it, and she slid right in. Tight as anything now, but the bare MDF on metal can sometimes resonate. The old shelf has that crappy padding on it, so i'm going to remove the shelf soon and lay some dynamat on the metal part of the parcel-shelf.

If you were to buy MDF or masonite the same thickness as the stock stuff, and replace the child restraint plastic clips with bolts and nuts (as I did), I recken it'd be much more rigid than the factory one, and you would probably gain a few dB.

Oh, add carpet and woodglue to the list.

ix9 Grand Master

ix9

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Posted
I traced onto some thicker MDF. Used a drill, jigsaw, belt sander, hammer and chisel.

Getting the vent-holes right was a pain, and the thicker MDF doesn't allow the clips on the vents and wiper-cover to clip in, you just have to make it tight so they wedge in and stay there. I also put screws and washers into the little pipes that had those clamping washers on them. That worked a treat.

Had to belt-sand the edge of the MDF that goes against the rear window because the thickness of the wood was stopping it from sitting under the window correctly. I put a 30 degree angle on it, and she slid right in. Tight as anything now, but the bare MDF on metal can sometimes resonate. The old shelf has that crappy padding on it, so i'm going to remove the shelf soon and lay some dynamat on the metal part of the parcel-shelf.

If you were to buy MDF or masonite the same thickness as the stock stuff, and replace the child restraint plastic clips with bolts and nuts (as I did), I recken it'd be much more rigid than the factory one, and you would probably gain a few dB.

Oh, add carpet and woodglue to the list.

Sweet, cool post - especially about the thicker MDF clearance to the window :dry:

Out of curiousity, what thickness MDF did you use?

I want to try and avoid belt-sanding it to fit, if I were to use a different thickness MDF you reckon ?

Leadfoot Enthusiast

Leadfoot

Posted
Posted

I would recommend people dont put the vent holes back in the new shelf as much as it might preserve the original look it may detract from the mid-bass sound quality.

The vent holes will allow air to short circuit from the front of the speaker to the back. This reduces the speakers efficiency to make bass.

When I cut my new shelf I did not put the vents back in. The rear window does not seem to be fogging up at all. I dont know what the purpose of those holes are to be truthful.

If you have a subwoofer in the boot though it may be worth putting the vents in so the boot air pressure doesnt destory your rear speakers.

Leadfoot Enthusiast

Leadfoot

Posted
Posted
Now that you mention it the drivers door does take a bit more effort to close now.

and also for completeness of this record and for anyone also contemplating the idea,

I have justed tested the climate control fan at all 4 speed settings with the windows up and I have lost about 25% of the air flow when switching between recirc and fresh air mode. Once I wind the window down in fresh air mode the fan flow jumps back up 25% to normal.

There are still gaps along the rear and sides of the parcel shelf for ventilation however at a guess I believe that removing the vents has reduced the effective open area by around 50%.

This leads me to think that not installing the vents in the back parcel shelf may not be a good idea for the small benefit in sound quality from the rear speakers.

The drivers door closes easily with the window slightly down. With the window up the door needs about twice the effort to make it close.

Oh well.

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