Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Chasing a template to follow for making a custom rear parcel shelf? I'm sick of the rattles from my 6" rears just "floating" on the rear parcel shelf (ugh!) and the gf just bought new rear speakers for her R33 too - might aswell make up 2 new parcel shelves while I'm at it!

Anyone have a template/measurements for this?

YES, I've searched but found squat!

Cheers

-Kym.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138511-new-rear-parcel-shelf-template/
Share on other sites

I traced onto some thicker MDF. Used a drill, jigsaw, belt sander, hammer and chisel.

Getting the vent-holes right was a pain, and the thicker MDF doesn't allow the clips on the vents and wiper-cover to clip in, you just have to make it tight so they wedge in and stay there. I also put screws and washers into the little pipes that had those clamping washers on them. That worked a treat.

Had to belt-sand the edge of the MDF that goes against the rear window because the thickness of the wood was stopping it from sitting under the window correctly. I put a 30 degree angle on it, and she slid right in. Tight as anything now, but the bare MDF on metal can sometimes resonate. The old shelf has that crappy padding on it, so i'm going to remove the shelf soon and lay some dynamat on the metal part of the parcel-shelf.

If you were to buy MDF or masonite the same thickness as the stock stuff, and replace the child restraint plastic clips with bolts and nuts (as I did), I recken it'd be much more rigid than the factory one, and you would probably gain a few dB.

Oh, add carpet and woodglue to the list.

I traced onto some thicker MDF. Used a drill, jigsaw, belt sander, hammer and chisel.

Getting the vent-holes right was a pain, and the thicker MDF doesn't allow the clips on the vents and wiper-cover to clip in, you just have to make it tight so they wedge in and stay there. I also put screws and washers into the little pipes that had those clamping washers on them. That worked a treat.

Had to belt-sand the edge of the MDF that goes against the rear window because the thickness of the wood was stopping it from sitting under the window correctly. I put a 30 degree angle on it, and she slid right in. Tight as anything now, but the bare MDF on metal can sometimes resonate. The old shelf has that crappy padding on it, so i'm going to remove the shelf soon and lay some dynamat on the metal part of the parcel-shelf.

If you were to buy MDF or masonite the same thickness as the stock stuff, and replace the child restraint plastic clips with bolts and nuts (as I did), I recken it'd be much more rigid than the factory one, and you would probably gain a few dB.

Oh, add carpet and woodglue to the list.

Sweet, cool post - especially about the thicker MDF clearance to the window :dry:

Out of curiousity, what thickness MDF did you use?

I want to try and avoid belt-sanding it to fit, if I were to use a different thickness MDF you reckon ?

I would recommend people dont put the vent holes back in the new shelf as much as it might preserve the original look it may detract from the mid-bass sound quality.

The vent holes will allow air to short circuit from the front of the speaker to the back. This reduces the speakers efficiency to make bass.

When I cut my new shelf I did not put the vents back in. The rear window does not seem to be fogging up at all. I dont know what the purpose of those holes are to be truthful.

If you have a subwoofer in the boot though it may be worth putting the vents in so the boot air pressure doesnt destory your rear speakers.

Now that you mention it the drivers door does take a bit more effort to close now.

and also for completeness of this record and for anyone also contemplating the idea,

I have justed tested the climate control fan at all 4 speed settings with the windows up and I have lost about 25% of the air flow when switching between recirc and fresh air mode. Once I wind the window down in fresh air mode the fan flow jumps back up 25% to normal.

There are still gaps along the rear and sides of the parcel shelf for ventilation however at a guess I believe that removing the vents has reduced the effective open area by around 50%.

This leads me to think that not installing the vents in the back parcel shelf may not be a good idea for the small benefit in sound quality from the rear speakers.

The drivers door closes easily with the window slightly down. With the window up the door needs about twice the effort to make it close.

Oh well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...