Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hope this helps... haven't had time to put it into table format to make it easier to read, but:

Code - Name - Manufacturer - Series 1 - Transition - Series 2

KH2 - Gunmetal Grey Metallic - BASF - Standard - Standard - Standard

KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic - BASF - Standard - N/A - N/A

KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic - Nippon Paint - N/A - Standard - Standard

326 - Crystal white - Nippon Paint - N/A - Standard - Standard

732 - Black Pearl Metallic - ALESCO - Standard - Standard - Standard

AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic - ALESCO - Standard - Standard - Standard

BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl - BASF - N/A - Standard - Optional

TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl - ALESCO - Standard - Standard - Optional

DH0 - Dark Green Metallic - ALESCO - One Off - N/A - N/A

The last colour was only available on a one off GTR made specifically for the head of the development team (Shizuo Watanabe) responsible for the R32, so not really sold to public, but narrowbody (non GTRs) were available in the same colour.

As for the finding the code, you should be able to read it off the VIN plate, failing that plug the chassis number into Nissan FAST and it'll tell you what it rolled off the factory floor with.

Shan - where did you get that list?

Its in the GT-R Magazine... Issue 49 :dry:

Umm i've got the catalogues for others like the Ceffy and the silvias n stuff at home (in Syd) but I haven't gotten around to translating em.

Its in the GT-R Magazine... Issue 49 :P

Umm i've got the catalogues for others like the Ceffy and the silvias n stuff at home (in Syd) but I haven't gotten around to translating em.

Cool

If you get around to translating them - let me know?

:dry:

If you get around to translating them - let me know?
You can come over n borrow em... I'll be putting up my great wall of japanese mags n catalogues when I get back.
Thanks . Have you got any numbers per colour of car production.
I don't unfortunately, but you're most welcome to plug in all the numbers from BNR32-000001 to BNR32-999999 and start a running tally ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...