Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ladz,

just a question,

when everyone else has put on an aftermarket wheel and boss kit, does your stearing go a little stiffer? or not?

if not what would cause mine to go a little harder to stear?

it almost feels like the power stearing isnt working as much anymore..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138663-aftermarket-steering-wheels/
Share on other sites

it could be to do with the boss kit.

i wish i could put an aftermarket wheel on but i have an airbag.

also if you are in qld, make sure that the diemeter of the wheel is bigger than 350mm, and not less then 25mm smaller than the stock. they are the legal requirements in qld. not sure about other states though.

I have just put on a new steering wheel and boss kit today but now after about 8-9km driving this dash light comes on... i dont know what it means because there is a little piece missing from my gauges so all i can see is a bulb... but obviously there is meant to be some sign there..

please look at the pics and let me know.. oh and its a 1994 R33 GTS-t

post-29932-1160819209.jpgpost-29932-1160819320.jpg

please help

Tim

no i didnt get a hicas boss kit.... where can i get one of them from?? do Nissan have Genuine ones? i know i guy in spare parts at Nissan..

no its not the handbrake light, thats up further...

so where can i get a hicas boss kit from?

which light you mean? the one on the speedo or the one above the fuel guage?

the one on the speedo is HICAS. as youve said you didnt get a hicas boss for the wheel, so that would be your prob... if its the other light id have to go take a look at mine... if its hand brake light the switch on it might be shagged, not sure if it warns for other probs tho...

oh sorry, yes the red one is my park brake... becuase i stopped and took the photo... but the light im asking about is the big bright yellow one...

how can you tell the difference between the hicas boss kit and a normal one??

after i took the wheel off there was a black thing that span around with 2 legs on it, but i couldnt fit the boss kit on over these legs so i took it off, pics are below, i had to remove this piece to get the boss kit on properly...

what is this piece.. should it have stayed on?? should the boss kit fit over these 2 legs on this black thing?

post-29932-1160863803.jpg

post-29932-1160863821.jpg

Edited by Beef

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...