Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my well known blue one is sold as i wanted to go street instead of track...

so i purchased this puppy

black factory manual rb20de non hicas non abs

ill write mods up later... heres pics how it is as of yesterday... front 5 stud and front rims + guard flare this weekend

post-25224-1169541533.jpg

post-25224-1169541555.jpg

post-25224-1169541584.jpg

Edited by Hella Flush
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139023-hella-flush-a31-rb20de-5spd-manual/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

i know dude! ive been workin flat out on it and im just so sore...

will do ti this weekend when i put my front sections in, 5 stud, 33 brakes and front rimsys... ill set ride height and allignment all round

exhaust this weekend asqwell as you can see stock one is almost hitting as it is

dont worry dude - everyone knows im the king of jap styling :laugh:

Edited by Hella Flush

update front 5 stud done today...

need new master as brakes are heaps soft (33 gtst all round) and bled them 3 times...

front wheels on enxt week to complete the set

exhaust gets done tomorrow morning at 9am which is actually 5.5hours away from now lol

rebuilding the driveline will begin next and more susp work

s14 hubs

s14 stubaxles

r33 rotors

r33 calipers

cefiro lower control arms with r33 balljoints pressed in (r33/s14 same balljoint taper/assembly and stub axle/hub)

dont use s14 or r33 lower control arms... extra 10mm in track can play with camber adjustment and be abitch thus i opted to use stock arms

pedders suspension charged 100 bucks for brand new balljoints to be pressed into my arms

40 a balljoint and 10 per side to press

one thing which im wondering about your setup konect is r33 dont use normal front coilovers like the silvia range... due to being irs they mount like a rear set dont they? makes me think you cant use r33 lower control arms and/or stub axle... would need to swap for s14 items

supposedly can use r32 front hubs slotted into standard stub axles also... thats what i did with my rear atleast - used z32 rear hubs slotted straight into my factory stub axle using factory drum handbrake setup... then slotted the brakes over

back on track

update on my car

5 stud completed yesterday as above... front section brand new coilovers come out of the gfs s15 and into my car tomorrow so i can have my full set back

exhaust was cancelled this morning as my guy called in sick to work so couldnt do it... rebooked for tuesday

got some interior bits i was missing today and installed - airvent surrounds etc

copped some gutter rash on my drivers side rear rim tonite at this ridiculously tight roundabout

attempted the white dial mod to dash cluster last nite

took 2 smokes straight and i had it done with all the green caps removed and reinstalled (did it in carpark whilst eating hj's as i always carry 3 toolboxes with me full of tools (just incase!))

only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes...

the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating... so im wondering how to fix this? it has been mentioned to use thinners on the dials to remove the green?

front rimsys should arrive this week also - already got new front tyres to stretch on when they arrive

also added some stickers today to rear quarters... pics up shortly!

s14 hubs

s14 stubaxles

r33 rotors

r33 calipers

cefiro lower control arms with r33 balljoints pressed in (r33/s14 same balljoint taper/assembly and stub axle/hub)

one thing which im wondering about your setup konect is r33 dont use normal front coilovers like the silvia range... due to being irs they mount like a rear set dont they? makes me think you cant use r33 lower control arms and/or stub axle... would need to swap for s14 items

supposedly can use r32 front hubs slotted into standard stub axles also... thats what i did with my rear atleast - used z32 rear hubs slotted straight into my factory stub axle using factory drum handbrake setup... then slotted the brakes over

Yeh I have all the parts off the R33 but was planning to use the S14 front hubs and lower control arms. But it seems you say that I can use the standard lower control arms if I get the new ball joint. Correct? So then I would only need the S14 hubs for the fronts.

R33 rears bolt on apparently. Mmmm drum handbrake.

its height man dont worry... now 5 stud is on it looks a lil better... slammed at front too just needs to come down at the rear

respray is on the cards... already lined up... but unsure when... its either going to be turbo conversion or respray... i know which is cheaper (respray) but am really hanging for some power to actually use the car

post-25224-1170078524.jpg

Edited by Hella Flush

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...