Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  neo32 said:
just got my 34 gtt brakes on my 32 put ebc red stuff pads

stops insane now

did new braided lines

How much were the braided lines? And pads?

  meanman said:
Russman did you do the rear aswell? or just the fronts?

Just fronts.

Now I just need to get some better tyres for more grip!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Mines half done now, Drilled out the front to 13.5mm Closest drill bit we had in the garage and the 3 toolshops I went to didnt have 14mm drill bits. But did pick up the M14 X 40 bolt I was missing 1.

Once drilled out to 13.5mm I just grabbed a file and started filling away untill the bolt fits through. (It was some special rounded file just fitted through the whole, couldnt believe my luck:D) R34 calipers now bolted on the front and f**k me does it pull up quick.

Cefiros are obviously 4 stud, so did the 5 stud conversion at the same time so that the 5 stud rotors would fit and I get a better selection of mags latter on. Just using my brothers old standard R33 rims since hes upgraded his, works out quite perfectly.

Got to do the rears soon. That shouldnt be anywhere near as bad as im sure the bolts on them are the same size.

Got the 5 stud conversion off Just Jap, $500

R34 rotors/calipers, $700 (includes $200 for postage :devil:, NOTE BRAKES ARE HEAVY) So what was cheap worked out a little bit more.

Standard rotors and standard brake pads, cant wait until they need replacing which is a perfect time to upgrade to Bendex ultimate and maybe some DBA rotors.

One happy chappy here.

  • 2 weeks later...
  meanman said:
Mines half done now, Drilled out the front to 13.5mm Closest drill bit we had in the garage and the 3 toolshops I went to didnt have 14mm drill bits. But did pick up the M14 X 40 bolt I was missing 1.

Once drilled out to 13.5mm I just grabbed a file and started filling away untill the bolt fits through. (It was some special rounded file just fitted through the whole, couldnt believe my luck:D) R34 calipers now bolted on the front and f**k me does it pull up quick.

Cefiros are obviously 4 stud, so did the 5 stud conversion at the same time so that the 5 stud rotors would fit and I get a better selection of mags latter on. Just using my brothers old standard R33 rims since hes upgraded his, works out quite perfectly.

Got to do the rears soon. That shouldnt be anywhere near as bad as im sure the bolts on them are the same size.

Got the 5 stud conversion off Just Jap, $500

R34 rotors/calipers, $700 (includes $200 for postage :laugh:, NOTE BRAKES ARE HEAVY) So what was cheap worked out a little bit more.

Standard rotors and standard brake pads, cant wait until they need replacing which is a perfect time to upgrade to Bendex ultimate and maybe some DBA rotors.

One happy chappy here.

Good stuff. So what do you get in conversion? Just the 5 stud hubs? Wow. $200 for postage is pretty extreme even with the weight! I've heard people posting 4 rims for $100!

I'm having a bit of trouble with mine now with heat spots after a fang through the tawonga gap near wodonga. The only thing I can think is the problem is if the spacers on my front wheels (about 3mm) aren't perfectly flat and it is causing the heat spots and consequently vibrations. or maybe it's just brake pad compound, I went for some endless pads. Pretty annoying...

  Russman said:
Good stuff. So what do you get in conversion? Just the 5 stud hubs? Wow. $200 for postage is pretty extreme even with the weight! I've heard people posting 4 rims for $100!

Yeah but I live in perth. Welcome to the most remote place in the planet. Goint From Perth to East is dirt cheap as all the containers go back empty from trucks/trains. Anything East to Perth your paying a mint for as its all full (no spare room)

Cost me $850 to get my car from Adelaide to Perth picked up from/dropped off door to door with insurance.

  Russman said:
I'm having a bit of trouble with mine now with heat spots after a fang through the tawonga gap near wodonga. The only thing I can think is the problem is if the spacers on my front wheels (about 3mm) aren't perfectly flat and it is causing the heat spots and consequently vibrations. or maybe it's just brake pad compound, I went for some endless pads. Pretty annoying...

Not sure with that one. Ive got no problems, yet to do the rear still. I just cant believe how those R34/R33 bakes are, they shit over shitty Silvia brakes.

Hope you find and fix the problem though.

  • 4 months later...
  meanman said:
Yeah but I live in perth. Welcome to the most remote place in the planet. Goint From Perth to East is dirt cheap as all the containers go back empty from trucks/trains. Anything East to Perth your paying a mint for as its all full (no spare room)

Cost me $850 to get my car from Adelaide to Perth picked up from/dropped off door to door with insurance.

Not sure with that one. Ive got no problems, yet to do the rear still. I just cant believe how those R34/R33 bakes are, they shit over shitty Silvia brakes.

Hope you find and fix the problem though.

hey guys, im just doing this conversion onto an R31 skyline atm. however, i have it bolted up on one side and it appears that the caliper is not entirely centerd over the rotor. R32/33 brake upgrades are quite common on 31's and usually require no washers to space the rotor out - so i assume if it WAS necessary to space the rotor out then you guys would have run into the same problem. is this the case??

if not, it might explain this vibrating you're talking about as the rear pad is contacting much earlier than the front.

  SLYLINER said:
hey guys, im just doing this conversion onto an R31 skyline atm. however, i have it bolted up on one side and it appears that the caliper is not entirely centerd over the rotor. R32/33 brake upgrades are quite common on 31's and usually require no washers to space the rotor out - so i assume if it WAS necessary to space the rotor out then you guys would have run into the same problem. is this the case??

if not, it might explain this vibrating you're talking about as the rear pad is contacting much earlier than the front.

I use to have an R31, I didnt think it was as simple for a brake upgrade on the R31 so I didnt bother. One thing that comes to mind is that you need the GTS1, GTS2, import R31 front struts as they are a fraction bit bigger, and then you can upgrade from their to R32/R33. But best to check on the R31 forums.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, in the same way that you can't tell any SUV from any manufacturer in any size category from any other one, "sports" coupes now all look identical. Stand back and squint your eyes and the Supra and the 400Z and the GR/BRZ things all look the same. I was just thinking last night, when sitting behind a Subaru CrossTrek, that I have no idea what it is, how it differs from an XV, or a Forester, or an Outback, or anything else Subaru offer, and I couldn't tell if it was supposed to be small, medium or large. I contrasted that to the good old days, where a HQ Kingswood had familial similarities to an LJ Torana, but there is no way that you could confuse them, and how a bit later, the HX Kinger and the concurrent Torana and the Gemini all had familial similarities, but you still could not confuse them. Ditto the ugly Fords and Chryslers of the era. But now, a RAV4 looks like a Kluger, looks like a Yaris/Cross/whatever they're calling those stupid f**king things, looks like every other Toyota that's not a Camry/Corolla sedan.
    • The Prelude doesn't look that bad without all that lens distortion in those pics. Makes it look disproportionate when it isn't. Actually I kind of liked it at the Osaka Auto Messe earlier this year. 
    • Pour in the highest octane, non-ethanol fuel you can get and see if the readout changes. If it's dead bang on 11% then I would question the sensor. Another quick test, just take it out and run normal (in an american accent) gas-o-line through it and see if the sampled ethanol or lack of changes.   United E85 here in the land of drop bears does vary a bit, I've had as high as E87 (could be water in their tanks too, who knows)
    • Yep. And if you ever do, you'll just have to deal with it then.
    • E10 is pretty tightly regulated in percentage. Too much and engines can't adapt. Every incentive is against them to have too little ethanol though. The more ethanol the higher the octane.
×
×
  • Create New...