Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well dude realistically look at other cars of that vintage .... they have like 120k+ in 90% of cases.... my 93 r32 has 130k and has no probs at all.... u can wreck a car in 10k or have a 150k car maintain and look after it and be better than one that has done half the kms.......have a good general look at the car id say it probably has the REAL amount of kms not like some other imports......(not trying to start a fight either lol)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13928-100-ks-on-r32/#findComment-277443
Share on other sites

Agreed.

125 000 on a R32 would average out to be 11 000 per year, well below the average for a years driving.

The only thing with a car of that age is you'll need to spend some money on stuff like suspension, etc etc....Its no great drama.

My 1994 R33 GTSt has 121 000 kays on it...Still going great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13928-100-ks-on-r32/#findComment-277528
Share on other sites

Mines now done 107,000 and its pulling like a train. I had a problem a while back with 2 exhaust valves burning but it was mainly due to previous owners mistreatment with too much boost. However when we pulled apart the head and bottom end to do the work we found the rest of the motor was in pristine condition, everything within spec.

I think you'll find unless you severely mistreat a jap motor, most of them wont have any wear of significant value until you hit 150+.

I had an SR20DE pulsar that had done 240,000 and still didnt burn oil and was just as quick as the day i bought it.

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13928-100-ks-on-r32/#findComment-283925
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...