Jump to content
SAU Community

Garrett Gt2876 Ball Bearing 440hp Turbo

stocksy

By stocksy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Grab a GCG Highflow for that sort of power.

I think SydneyKids group buy for $1750 or there abouts is still running.

The GCG Highflows bolt straight up with no more to spend.

Buy something that doesn't bolt up and your up for another $200-$300 worth in sorting out silicon hoses and water/oil lines not to mention another $300 odd for a custom dump pipe.

blitzxtr Community Regular

blitzxtr

Posted
Posted (edited)
oh yeh not bad... wat other turbos would you reccomend for 250-260kw?

GARRET 3040 DIRECT BOLT ON THE STANARD MANIFOLD GOOD FOR ABOUT 250 TO 260 RWKW I HAD ONE ON MY RB25 IT MADE 255RWKW ON 18 PSI

Edited by blitzxtr
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
GARRET 3040 DIRECT BOLT ON THE STANARD MANIFOLD GOOD FOR ABOUT 250 TO 260 RWKW I HAD ONE ON MY RB25 IT MADE 255RWKW ON 18 PSI

Why would you want all that compressor flow when the hot side is unable to support it. Your trading nothing for............... lag. :laugh:

blitzxtr Community Regular

blitzxtr

Posted
Posted (edited)
Why would you want all that compressor flow when the hot side is unable to support it. Your trading nothing for............... lag. :laugh:

What do you mean by unable to support it & lag there was not much lag full boost by 3500 GO BACK TO YOUR DESK PROFESSOR & STAY OUT OF THE GARAGE

Edited by blitzxtr
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

lmao mr make full boost by 3500rpm keyboard warrior. :D

So your telling me the GT3040 .63 hot side will make complete use of the compressors air flow ability. hrmm why is it Garrett didnt release such a combination......

Its not just lag its also response that will be affected by running a large compressor.

For the power this blokes after a GT3071r will be perfectly fine, offer better response than the GT3040 and still make the power he's after.

I've seen a GT2871r make 240rwkw with stock like spool on an rb25. I'll try to dig up the dyno sheet from the dyno day.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

My opinion only (shared by most of the production engineers at Garrett in Torrence California) .

The GT3040R has too large in diametre a compressor for the GT30 turbine , it struggles to produce enough turbine shaft power to drive a high capacity compressor ie with that much sail area . This is why HKS only offered their spec GT3040R in the smallest available 82mm GT40 compressor trim - 50T , the Garrett marketed one at 56T is far laggier by comparison .

DO yourself a favour and stay away from the GT2876R , its the same deal only scaled down overall . I will confirm but from memory it uses the hopless TO4S compressor and only T28 flanged exhaust housing are available from Garrett . If it uses the cropped GT30 turbine I suspect it does turbine efficiency will be woeful . Same old story , long shot by Garrett to get more gas flow through the T28 turbine housing family and the concept failed to deliver . Only HKS exhaust housings work with the "cropped" turbine because they are GT30 turbine based castings dimensionally and have the right nozzle design .

Back in five .

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Danger Will Robinson - avoid this lump . The dog turbo uses a 48 trim T04S compressor in large bulky heavy TO4S comp cover .

The turbine is not the cropped GT30 turbine but the normal high performance GT28 turbine .

I reckon T28 flanged anything is pointless for Skylines that use the T3 mounting flange on their exhaust manifolds . The real GT3071R , and no not the GT3071R WG version , should work well . Garrett now sells T3 flanged integral wastegate exhaust housings so they will physically bolt to the std exhaust manifold - provided the compressor cover clears it .

People have found the GT3076R and HKS GT3037 56T (same centre section and wheels) a little laggy on street cars , HKS also does a 52 comp trim version but they're thin on the ground in Aus .

The real GT3071R (insist on cartridge or CHRA no 700177-0023) is probably the best compromise unless you can afford exotics such as HKS brands .

You can find its details and pics at ATP Turbos web site .

Cheers A .

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

So would that turbo(gt3071r) be the next step up from the GCG hi-flow?

And having bought it, how much extra would it cost to assemble all the parts to bolt it up on the weekend?Surely someone must make a complete package or at least a one stop shop where I could buy everything for a reasonable price.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

People do tend to push a bee's dick more out of them than the GCG highflows.... But they do cost a little more to get on the car.

No packages are available that I know of... Simply buy the turbo; suitable water/oil lines bolt it on and then take it to an exh. shop to have a dump pipe made up. Or.. Machine up your Skyline turbine housing to suit; by this time the machining costs even out with the costs of a new dump pipe. I know what I'd rather; a new dump pipe with the correct unmolested turbine housing.

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

What about sticking with my hi-flow and adding a vg30 exhaust housing? Though I must admit the ability of the wastegate to control boost would worry me.Perhaps a slightly bigger ,say 1mm wastegate would help.Enough to flow 240kws at 17lbs.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
What do you mean by unable to support it & lag there was not much lag full boost by 3500 GO BACK TO YOUR DESK PROFESSOR & STAY OUT OF THE GARAGE

What gear?

Street or dyno loaded?

There is a key difference there, its also on/off throttle response that is just as crucial as peak power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...