Jump to content
SAU Community

Poll - Carbies

coupe72001
 Share

Recommended Posts

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

Having had a bit of a nightmare with all my carbies (twin SU, twin 260Z Hitachi and C210 single carb) over the last little while I was curious...

What carbies are you old-schoolers running on your cars?

How many?

Where do you get them serviced, or do you DIY?

Do you love them, or do they cause you endless pain and suffering?

Ringing around Melbourne its hard to find anyone that will even TUNE my carbies, let alone for anything less than a small fortune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

got a set of Keihin flatslide carbs on my Honda Fireblade

(for sale)

love em. the sound of flatslide carbs opening up at xxxkmph is heaven.

tinkered a little with the tuning myself, but left the overall setup to an ex-500gp racer who resides in Adelaide; he's a wizz and charges $30ph.

however, when the tune gets on in time you can definately tell that the carbs are going "off" as such. good luck with finding a reputable tuner tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2596659
Share on other sites
Jdfnq Proficient

Jdfnq

Posted
Posted
Having had a bit of a nightmare with all my carbies (twin SU, twin 260Z Hitachi and C210 single carb) over the last little while I was curious...

What carbies are you old-schoolers running on your cars?

How many?

Where do you get them serviced, or do you DIY?

Do you love them, or do they cause you endless pain and suffering?

Ringing around Melbourne its hard to find anyone that will even TUNE my carbies, let alone for anything less than a small fortune.

Had twin webbers and they were a bitch to tune..... Wonderful when it was right though :D

The key was getting aero spec lines, rods, joins etc as they don't flex or move much (if at all).

Also had a 350 holley with 500 jets and it was fairly easy to tune

Did it all myself, but got my hands on some workshop manuals to help me the first fwe times... Trying to figure them out without em would've been a nightmare.....

Some of the older jap carbies are really easy to work with as they have less parts...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2596682
Share on other sites
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The 260Z carbies are WOFTAM.

Have you talked to Lindsay at Z Shop in Glen Iris?

Im not actually sure what WOFTAM is... but im guessing its not World Of Fun Times And Merriment.

Actually, I have dealt with the Z shop guys before. They will actually service my car, which is a plus... But I'm open to making new friends in the industry. Their time is certainly worth more than $30 an hour.

BTW Tangles, I had a set of quad Keihins on my old Honda 1300 Coupe 9... Sigh... they were very special.

Drew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2597755
Share on other sites
MrAnderson Enthusiast

MrAnderson

Posted
Posted

are your carbs a matched pair? adding carbs from one car to another or mixing and matching can be a real nightmare to get running right... it might be worth your money getting em synched properly and then getting it tuned. the only time i have ever heard someone complain about carbs is when they were not factory fitted ... once their set right they will stay in tune for a long time (at least webers do) theyre should be a few places in melbourne that specialise in carbs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2598099
Share on other sites
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

If off the line sluggishness is not a problem, try looking at a set of Triumph 2500TC 1 3/4 SU's, if a manifold is available.

I think MGB's also ran them but I think they were 1 1/2's.

They have an infinite amount of jet & needle combinations available for them and are still relatively easy to get.

I found them far superior to the Jap copies it wasn't funny when I was running them on a 180B SSS.

The air speed through the carbies is not good from a standing start, but once moving it was a very good combination.

The same thing was found when using Dellorto's Vs Webber's in my early days when playing with Hillman's, the smallest Dellorto was 42mm but 40mm Webbers were the best.

Tuning is relatively simple, if you buy a balance flow guage.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2598125
Share on other sites
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

My only experience with new SU's was a pair of HIF6's with the non emission manifold on a stretched L20B - 2340 . The later HIF 6 series SU's have the central lower fuel bowl compared to the early "out on a limb" types ie HS4's and HS6's . It helps with fuel surge as the bowl is concentric with the needle and jet .

SU's will always have problems with radiated heat particularly with engines that have exhaust and inlet manifolds on the same side ie real Minis and the L series . Later HIF series had a kind of metalic strip compensating device but it was of limited value .

A bit of care needs to be taken with these vacum venturi carbs to avoid iceing in humid climates .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2604269
Share on other sites
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the replies.

After a bit of shopping around I decided to get my SU's sorted by a pro. They are going great guns now. Anyone looking for a Datsun/carbie friendly mechanic in Melbourne should look up GMA Motors in Yarraville in Melbourne, as he actually used to rally a C210.

Just for the record; my SU's are 1 and 3/4, with water cooling for the manifold and a heat sheild for the extractors... and yes, they are certainly working out better than the 260Z carbs... WOFTAM, heh heh, should have worked that one out.

Anyone out their doing something different with carbies? Anyone had a go at running triples?

Drew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2607744
Share on other sites
R30-RB30DET Apprentice

R30-RB30DET

Posted
Posted

There is a few 280z racecars around my area in new zealand one has a fully worked L28 its like nearly 3L and has had thousands & thousands spent on it and it has triple 45mm (or was it 48mm?) dellortos an god dam it sounds nice!, like easly the best sounding N/A car I have ever heard and it goes really well in its class like gets up there with the top runners quite often! Tryed to find some info on the net but cant seem to find anything on it though sorry!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139355-poll-carbies/#findComment-2608760
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...