Jump to content
SAU Community

Can Some1 Lend A Helping Hand To Help Me Install A Turbo Tech Boost Controller N A Boost Gauge = )


Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just woundering if any 1 has a little free time and could help me install a turbotech boost controller and a boost gauge too sometime = ).

Nozila aka Duc can you help me out brother > <

or does any1 know, how much it cost to get it fitted from a business????????

ALL FEEDBACK IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!

with love, hahaha

SHORtY

Edited by shorty_01

CHEERS BRO!

Im buying the exhaust tmr n will recieve boost gauge on monday(due postage).. So around 29th/Oct for us to ctach up.

Time for me n you to catch up n have a Corona.

Ill call soon as i get my boost gauge.

cheers vietnamese bro lol

Edited by shorty_01

Don't let a Skyline man touch your Silvia! Thats wrong! lol

EDIT - j/k for those who took me seriously lol :laugh:

Edited by Busky2k

hahahaha!

Nozila is aiight, he pre owned a silvia so its all GOods.

I may need htlp installing G-teck front n Dump pipe. too.

Ill call u soons ^ ^

Edited by shorty_01
Don't let a Skyline man touch your Silvia! Thats wrong! lol

EDIT - j/k for those who took me seriously lol :laugh:

haha i wouldnt either but i use to have 2 so its an exception.

Boost gauge is easy.

Ok maybe I lied there, it's easy on a Skyline. Im not sure where you connect the boost gauge vac line to on a S14.

Im assuming its a Mechanical one. Or are we fancy and have a electronic one.

Good luck buddy.

Hey Duc,

YOUR INBOX IS FULL SO I CANT PM YOU!

I just got my Boost gauge today, its a 52mm Mechanical Boost Gauge and have my trubo tech boost controller reading to be installed = P.

Finally got the 3 inch Jun BL DTM style catback exhaust fitted today at ET for $600.

WHen are you free bro to help me install it = P lol!

PM ME back, i got no credit on my phone atm.

Make a TIME N DATE n ill be there.

Cheers = )

Edited by shorty_01
you need something installed as well?

nah

just do bits n pieces lol, lets see...

umm fix front bar so doesnt hang as much

fix right head light

fix holder that holds up the hood cos the clips missing

put mbf board on bottom of boot.

new front breaks

clean pod

find the missing 14 kws

eventually put my sub cables under the carpet, and fix my sub n amp so they dont move around haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...