Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guysss

if any one has a problem with there dash lights

i figured out my problem and fixed

after 2 hours of blowing fuses and electric shocks with my cousin.. i figured

wtf... il bypass the switch all togeather and hard wire the wire sto each other

this seemed to work..

but my antena still doesnt work!!!!

could be my head unit me is thinking

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/
Share on other sites

make sure the plug goes behind the deck for the antenna is plug in... if this comes loose then your antenna will not come up..

once this is checked and it is ok, then i beleive the motor in your antenna is stuffed.. happen with me, just replace the antenna dude...might set you back $55 for an auto antenna.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-278408
Share on other sites

PUSHEAD - sorry to say, YOU ARE 100% WRONG.

Even in your thread that refers to preditor666's thread, he clearly states:

" The slashed ones are the stripey ones in the two colours.

Green/red - Power Antenna up/down "

When the radio is turned on, it sends a +12V signal to power antena. This triggers a relay which uses a separate 12V line to power the motor up or down. Ground is via body. If you are using the tape deck or cd player there is no voltage on this wire, thus the antena remains down.

Zdenko - Did your inital problems come about by themselves, or did you install a new head unit (or something else) and then the problems presented themselves?

PS: Please PM me once you have answered the question, so that i can respond, as i may forget to revisit this thread. Also include the thread title.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-279892
Share on other sites

hmmm...don't hard wire stuff! Its a quick and dirty solution, and what happens if you do get a short.. BZZTT who knows what u could blow

Something I discovered last night (after being pulled over by the cops.. oops :).. the tail lights are on the same circuit for the dash lights (speedo, etc). The "tail light" (10A) fuse in the back fusebox is the same circuit for the speedo/tacho, dash lights

Also: many plugs need to be closed or you'll get open circuit and other things attached to the circuit may not work. Disconnect the hazard button plug and you'll notice that your indicators no longer work!! (i discovered this yesterday too... ooops :P but didn't get pulled over for that one)

hehehe: thanx Al :( yup, i think thats pretty much how it all works, so check the separate fuse for the aerial. I think its in the boot fusebox.

The antenna control wire simply is 12v which triggers the motor circuit to go up or down (toggle). Make sure its connected, or otherwise rigged to ACC or connect your own switch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-282961
Share on other sites

lol whats wrong with hard wireing??

lol it works??

nah i think my switch is stuffed

so if any one is recking there skyline

i want ur switch!!

ahah

but yeh the anntenna i was ment o have a loko at that yesterday but ran out of time...

had my gf calling me to pick her up from work!!!

farken chicks

they al hate city driving!

i wish i cold hard wire her off a bridge!~

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-282978
Share on other sites

switch ? hmmm.. Mine doesn't have a switch?? You talking about the instrument cluster or other parts of the dash above the stereo? I know some have a dimmer knob for the instrument lights..mine doesn't look like it ever had one.

a'hrm.. look whos angry at somebody :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-282989
Share on other sites

So is your antenna working know?

Originally posted by predator666

hmmm...don't hard wire stuff! Its a quick and dirty solution, and what happens if you do get a short.. BZZTT who knows what u could blow

Please explain, as i work as a electronic feild technecian and consider soldiering and covering with heat shrink to be the best and safest way to connect wires.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-283937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...