Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Upgrading my kit as it's a bit more piggy now so my old kit is off. It's a Type M kit off a R32. The Type M is additional factory extra's which consisted of a different front bar, sideskirts and rear pods.

Front Bar - $200

Skirts - $150

Rear bumper - $150

Pods - $50

43px6ol.jpg

From The Rear (Yes I know the back tyres bald, sunday daytime industrial dorifuto fun minutes before this pic)

437utms.jpg

All this stuff is in excellent condition and have had a bit of interest but no one has come up with the money yet. It's a nice looking kit, and would suite a 32 that's slammed on it's ass, although is good for drifting/track.

I'm located in Perth, WA so we can work out shipping interstate if required. Maybe 50/50 in costs?

0431 059 615 - PM - [email protected]

Thanks, Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139573-fs-white-r32-type-m-kit/
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

If you want to have stuff couriered you could try calling the Fastway Perth office yourself to arrange a pick up from JZN32's place to your door.

The number is 08 9353 6401. They quoted be around $110 for the front bar to Sydney wrapped in bubble wrap.

See how you go - it would mean less of a hassle for JZN32 and maybe get your your parts quicker.

Give me a price for the rear pods and side skirts. Including postage to sydney 2222. Please get back to me asap as my car is sprayed as we speak and i have still yet to get my hands on the skirts and the rear pods.

Ur asking, 200 for just parts. So im assuming roughly 150ish for postage.

Let me know exact and you got a deal.

However, i dont know how you go about buying stuff through this site.

Regards,

Daniel

email me at [email protected]

Hey guys, sorry about the delay. I got roughly quoted today for everyone enquiring. Not too show how they sound but here they are:

legend01 - Skirts/Rear Pods = $62.18

chinkeboi - Skirts = $97.50

Richo - Rear Bar = $117.52

RB20JT - Side Skirts/Rear Pods = $132.31

DJRIFT - Front Bar = $192.15

Feel free to check for youself using the Courier of your choice.

Full kit is for sale still, has to go soon, I got a new kit and this one will be taking up bulk space in the garage.

Jason :)

im very interested.

would u consider a straight 300 including postage?

cheers

Hey guys, sorry about the delay. I got roughly quoted today for everyone enquiring. Not too show how they sound but here they are:

legend01 - Skirts/Rear Pods = $62.18

chinkeboi - Skirts = $97.50

Richo - Rear Bar = $117.52

RB20JT - Side Skirts/Rear Pods = $132.31

DJRIFT - Front Bar = $192.15

Feel free to check for youself using the Courier of your choice.

Full kit is for sale still, has to go soon, I got a new kit and this one will be taking up bulk space in the garage.

Jason :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...