Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys...

last night I was driving, gave it a bit, but not heaps and suddenly lost all boost and power. No noise.It seemed wierd, I had no flutter anymore...wans't sure what was going on, I assumed I blew a hose off the FMIC or the BOV.

Anyway everything seemed fine. In the morning a did some close inspections, nothing seemed wrong..I pulled of some hoses and had a look and checked the BOV and bleed valve for the boost - looks good.

Took it for a spin...drove ok until you hit like 0.3bar+ def. was spooling and I could here pressure being released..so I guessed the turbo is working - to some degree.

Currently I have an emanage in the car as my PFC will be installed in 1 week. ITs been running fine. But I did an ECU reset, connected back up to the stock boost solanoid and took it for a spin...boosts up to 0.5bar ok..but whent he revs hit about 4k...just dies in the arse...felt like it was dumping lots of fuel...in fact watching the guage it seemed to move down a lot in the process..I didn't notice smoke..but i didn't really look either.

I put my ear to the turbo and it doens't appear to be making any funny noises...you can hear it spinning at idle...and u can hear it spool under some load.

My guess is the emanage is f*ked..or f*king with the ECU...it seems like its being retarded as under some load u can feel it isn't pulling like normal and is running at say 1/2 thottle..

I'm worried I screwed the turbo...but its a new steel/bb type...good for 700hp aparently and I had been running 1-1.2 bar for some time before this. ... Was thinking of taking off the cat to see if any bits are there but cbf right at the minute..

Any susgestions of any things I should check to rule out the turbo?

I did a search on blown turbos and it didn't apear to fit any of the symtoms...seemed more like a hose it blown but I looked a few times and took most of them off for inspection. AFM is a few months odl also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139642-turbo-or-ecu/
Share on other sites

does the emanage save its settings in nvram (one would assume so).

do u have the emanage software + cable? can you check its program/tune is still present. sounds like u might be hitting r&r protection from the stock ecu, perhaps the emanage settings have been reset so now its hitting the stock r&r on the stock ecu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139642-turbo-or-ecu/#findComment-2602857
Share on other sites

Feel like driving to my place Mon night?

Or wait till Thurs

i'll work it out for ya if your still having issues.

Sounds like the emanage isnt doing its job though and intercepting it

thanks Paul & Ash...

I kept loking at stuff but didn't get anywhere and justed working on the FTO instead...which now has nice new ATF after spilling the shit everywhere..

BOV = stock...seemed to be working when I took it off but I don't have much to compare it to.

I havn't got the cable etc...I left it at my tuners..cos I didn't get the software....basically cos I was upgrading to the PFC anyway.

I'm pretty sure your right and hitting R&R...cos it feels ghey..dunno why it just hit it in the middle of driving though? But I did find it acting wierd earlier in the day when I cained it it went but not fast enough...

if u send me ur details, I'II make the trip and see if u can suss it out...then u can check my new rims..hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139642-turbo-or-ecu/#findComment-2603177
Share on other sites

the new turbo will change the airflow patterns dramatically compare to the stock ecu. the r&r is based on airflow at certain levels, so as the engine comes on load more airflow comes than the ecu thinks is acceptable so it activates its self protection to make sure things are safe

you can turn the boost way down but depending on what actuator you have it might not help, ie if its a 12psi actuator you will probably still hit it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139642-turbo-or-ecu/#findComment-2603188
Share on other sites

the new turbo will change the airflow patterns dramatically compare to the stock ecu. the r&r is based on airflow at certain levels, so as the engine comes on load more airflow comes than the ecu thinks is acceptable so it activates its self protection to make sure things are safe

you can turn the boost way down but depending on what actuator you have it might not help, ie if its a 12psi actuator you will probably still hit it

yeah it makes sense. The setup was tuned as is...for the past few months it was fine :laugh:

Cos I wanted to elimintae the bleed value I put it back to the stock solanoid. This did help, hit 0.5 pretty quick cos of the new turbo but as the REVs picked up it eventually cut...i.e. what u said above. I might put the bleed value back on and turn it down alot to make it drive normal and take it to Ash's and see what the deal is..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139642-turbo-or-ecu/#findComment-2603200
Share on other sites

I went to see GTR Geoff today and he took a look at it and went for a spin. He reckons it feels like its being restricted..i.e. maybe the emanage is f*king with it as suspected...we also though mayeb the fuel pump was doing dodgy things...

I think the best bet is to advance my PFC install and go form there. I will talk to my guys tomorrow...really annoying.

thanks for the help....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139642-turbo-or-ecu/#findComment-2604937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...