Bee-r Rev Limter

[Mr. Oizo]

Gizzmo one needs the Shift light as well.

Bee-R cuts the entire ignition circuit on and off as required.

The Gizzmo is sequencial so it shuts down cylinder by cylinder.

Factor in the $300 odd for the Shiftlight for the Gizzmo.

PS. If you get the Gizzmo one, I want a full review cos I would love to get one.

BASS OUT

I have both, 200 for the shift light, 170 for the launch controller

Haven't had a chance to wire them up, but as soon as I do, I'll give you a ride in the car Pete

(I'm hoping to get some 1.7 60ft times with it hooked up)

[Bass Junky]

Dark,

You kick arse!

I'm keenly awaiting the fun!

[The Mafia]

I have both, 200 for the shift light, 170 for the launch controller

Haven't had a chance to wire them up, but as soon as I do, I'll give you a ride in the car Pete

(I'm hoping to get some 1.7 60ft times with it hooked up)

Dark, is this also a 0kmph rev limiter? I don't want the rev limiter cutting in when moving. Also is it easy to turn off?

Does anyone know of a proper rev limiter like this one without the shift light? And by proper I mean one that shuts down individual cylinders, not the whole ignition circut.

Thanks guys (oh and sorry if I have hijacked this thread)

[Mr. Oizo]

Dark, is this also a 0kmph rev limiter? I don't want the rev limiter cutting in when moving. Also is it easy to turn off?

Does anyone know of a proper rev limiter like this one without the shift light? And by proper I mean one that shuts down individual cylinders, not the whole ignition circut.

Thanks guys (oh and sorry if I have hijacked this thread)

It works on a clutch switch

So, it only activates the limiter when the clutch is in, so it allows you to flatshift, and keep full boost

You can always hide the shift light in your glovebox or somewhere where its not visible.

If you want something like what you described, Wolf/Motec/Autronic should be able to handle something like that

[Bass Junky]

The Gizzmo also has a rev-limit function.

So there's the clutch limiter and total rev limiter.

The shift light is big, and I wish they made a smaller one.

I was considering pulling one apart and remote mounting the L.E.Ds so that you only have a little L.E.D in the corner of your dash.... That's the ultimate in stealth

[The Mafia]

The Gizzmo also has a rev-limit function.

So there's the clutch limiter and total rev limiter.

The shift light is big, and I wish they made a smaller one.

I was considering pulling one apart and remote mounting the L.E.Ds so that you only have a little L.E.D in the corner of your dash.... That's the ultimate in stealth

Problem is I have a powerfc and a datalogit so its not viable for me to change the ECU.

After something small, that cuts revs with ignition cut, and yeah, minimal stuffing around to install. Wish I had a powerfc pro, or they kept making them

[paulr33]

i came up with the crazy idea to use datalogit to edit the aircon-on idle RPM to around say 3000rpm in the FC then disable the aircon system (fuse or something) then to activate the launch rpm turn on the aircon (even tho system disabled). the FC would kick up the RPM as the A/C switch is ON and sit at whatever RPM you dialed in but as soon as you tapped the throttle it would drop again. and it could be unsafe, but more than 1 way to skin a cat

:sorcerer:

[paulr33]

FC pro exists for r32 and is $1400 brand new from nengun.

you would have to flip the two injectors that the ap engineer guys do.

also load your default 25 maps or current tune. the rest should be fine.

but you will loose the VCT if you do this

actually ill add that to the FC faq as an alternative for the FC Pro on rb25det

its a shame the rb26 FC pro was discontinued, if you can find one of those

you could use that on your rb25, would give you the following

working airtemp

support for twin afms if you want

support for twin 02 sensors if you want

pro functionality

VCT wont work

[Bass Junky]

Paul,

You would need the airflow from the open throttle to rev to 3000rpm.

I think.

The idea is not so much the revs, but the masses of fuel pumping into the manifold and the wide open throttle.

[paulr33]

yeah my idea was a crazy zany idea #0037

i didnt think it would ever work or be a good idea

[sav man]

Problem is I have a powerfc and a datalogit so its not viable for me to change the ECU.

Can't you wire up a clutch switch to the datalogit, and use the antilag? Ovisly you won't get the ignition cut rev limiter.

[Mr. Oizo]

Can't you wire up a clutch switch to the datalogit, and use the antilag? Ovisly you won't get the ignition cut rev limiter.

Antilag is meant to work when your foot is OFF the throttle

It would kind of defeat the purpose of hooking it up to a clutch switch

[paulr33]

the datalogit antilag is broken and unsupported (ie: dont bother)

[sav man]

Antilag is meant to work when your foot is OFF the throttle

It would kind of defeat the purpose of hooking it up to a clutch switch

i read that it dosn't work off the tps, but off the clutch switch. so when the clutch is in (launch, gearchange) it retards the timing and goes bang bang.

But apparently it dosn't work, so that fixes that.

[Mr. Oizo]

i read that it dosn't work off the tps, but off the clutch switch. so when the clutch is in (launch, gearchange) it retards the timing and goes bang bang.

But apparently it dosn't work, so that fixes that.

i cant see that being useful on a launch, on gearchanges, yes

do you really want to retard the timing while you're trying to rev/accelerate?

[Bass Junky]

Retarding the ignition heats up the exhuast gas, hence spinning the turbo faster.

That's how Anitlag works. Lots of fuel, retarded ignition.

[Mr. Oizo]

Retarding the ignition heats up the exhuast gas, hence spinning the turbo faster.

That's how Anitlag works. Lots of fuel, retarded ignition.

I thought it retarded timing rather than ignition?

When the driver lifts his foot from the gas pedal the ignition timing is altered with sometimes 40° or more of delay (retard) and the intake air and fuel supply mixture is made richer. The inlet butterfly is kept slightly open or an air injector is used to maintain air supply to the engine. This results in air/fuel mixture that keeps getting in the combustion chambers when the driver no longer accelerates. The ignition being delayed, the air/fuel mixture reaches the exhaust tubes mostly unburned. When the spark plug fires, the exhaust valve is starting to open due to the ignition delay mentioned above. Additionally, the exhaust temperature being extremely high, the unburned fuel explodes at the contact of the exhaust tubes. Luckily the turbo sits right there and the explosion keeps it turning (otherwise it would slow down since its intake, the exhaust gases, is cut-off).

I've just confused myself even more

I'll shut up

[Bass Junky]

Um, Timing is Ignition....

[Mr. Oizo]

Um, Timing is Ignition....

yeah

i was confusing myself with retarding the exhaust cam for some reason

[funkymonkey]

379 from otomoto.com.au

bought mine secondhand off yahoo auctions for $80 delivered. Chucked it on my N/A RB20DE with a "race pipe" (no need to worry about ceramic turbines) and scared the ba-jeezus out of everyone when the clutch got dumped.

It now resides on a CA18DET in an actual race car, so its sorta well suited. Which reminds me, there's different Rev Limiters for different engines, RB and CA are the same though.

If you hook the handbrake signal cable up, then you can dial in 2 different max RPM's before cutting ignition. Really good for drag racing, sorta pointless on the track.