Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Holy shit, what can you possibly buy for $60k?

That's insane. I could replicate that whole car for $60k

If you could make it physically look like for $60K goodluck to ya and I guarantee it wont run 8 sec passes. The amount of time that goes into RnD into this car is ridiculous, labour alone would cost that much if I had to pay a workshop to do build this car.

If you could make it physically look like for $60K goodluck to ya and I guarantee it wont run 8 sec passes. The amount of time that goes into RnD into this car is ridiculous, labour alone would cost that much if I had to pay a workshop to do build this car.

I've definitely built a few 8 and 9 second cars so I know what's involved. I'm not trying to detract from your build at all....it is truly an awesome specimen....but I can't see where $60k would go on an engine

Doesn't take long when you buy top shelf parts, the limited edition HKS T62R Turbo when it was first released was 7k, but we got it for $6500. Well worth the money but, so many people doubted us if we could run a 8sec pass with the small frame turbo (everybody usually runs those big monstrosities GT42 / GT47's). So far we have done it with a full weight 1500kg car and only running 3/4 of the power available and a H Pattern Manual Gearbox. Turbo is so responsive and the engine has a massive powerband, full boost at 6500rpm and can run the engine out to 11000rpm if need be. 4500rpm to play with makes for an exciting drive, world record will be ours just a matter of getting to willow bank and more practice and playing with the settings. Only got 4 runs at Jambo first time racing at willowbank, first 2 runs were test runs, 3rd run was 8.97sec and 4th run gearbox failed weekend over. 0.02sec of Theo's world record bring on Jambo 2013. .

Ross balancer and valve springs turned up today, I'm collecting quite alot of parts at the moment, only just realised this the other day before I came back out to work lol. Getting hard to find certain things now.

Just waiting on some parts from America now, and mulling over wether or not I should fork out for some 740cc Nismo injectors or just leave the 555cc's for now

For the price of them Cal just buy a set of Xspuirt / Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors they are not that expensive anymore, I'm gonna try get the old 2200cc out of the R32 flow tested and bang them in the SR20 hopefully the are all good save me a few dollars.

I love when cars parts turn up in the mail it's like Xmas lol, I must have a lot a Xmas's then.... nearly every week :)

2200's in the SR? What power are you going to be running :/ lol

I want Nismo's again but I may settle for something else. Get some cash back for my 555's anyway

Do yourself a favour and bin the Nismo injectors. They are such an old design. The car will run so much better on the new Bosch or Siemens injectors

I always thought the nismo's had one of the best spray patterns and were pretty well regarded that's why I went with them

Maybe I will look elsewhere now :)

They are just a Denso injector. Poor latency at idle, poor spray pattern in general (not as bad as some but by today's standards pretty average)

2200's in the SR? What power are you going to be running :/ lol

I want Nismo's again but I may settle for something else. Get some cash back for my 555's anyway

What power will I make, dunno i'm just gonna max the bitch out what ever the turbo will give me :)

Thinking of trading in the Fairlane on this beast I found:

1996 4 door GTS-4

-R33 GTR RB26DETT

-R34 GTR 6 Speed Getrag

-R33 GTR Brembo's

-Series 3 GTR Front end conversion with Xenon Lights

-Plus more

All for bargin price :)

4036BB4715BE4E33914383C95188858E.jpg

71B1095F78DA468CBA8319E2D0CA0644.jpg

7C1EE4FA5D394F5888ABE1BE9A526C02.jpg

5298A197909E4F559F101EE72BAB85ED.jpg

Only thing it doesn't have is the wider rear guards, I can live with that I think, would be fun to have a 4 door and smoke everything and de-badge all the skyline badges off it and just leave the GTR badges on people will think i'm a retard until I put my foot down and leave-em in the dust :)

Time for another skyline I think been so long since I had one, will make a great edition to my Nissan family

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...