Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used to run Mobil 1.

BUT, just as a treat one day and I liked the name I tried Royal Purple, there is no point in trying to sell it. You just have to try it yourself and see the results. I couldn't believe that oil would make such a difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/#findComment-232
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
I used to run Mobil 1.

BUT, just as a treat one day and I liked the name I tried Royal Purple, there is no point in trying to sell it. You just have to try it yourself and see the results. I couldn't believe that oil would make such a difference.[/quote:fd1587d658]

i've heard nothing but praise about the royal purple. it's on everyones top list so it must be worth it. i think i'll try it in around 2000k's when my service is due.

peakRPM, how much do you pay for 5L?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/#findComment-233
Share on other sites

There are about 3 different "grades" of Mobil 1. I'm not talking about the viscosity but the actual quality.

This was news to me a couple of weeks ago. I have been using the 0W40 I get from my Bro in law. Cost price is now $16/litre, used to be around $10. It's good stuff. It's not the same as the stuff you get at K-Mart.

The car blew some tiny puffs of smoke when it 1st went in but now doesn't blow/use any. Thin as water. I change it every 5000 or earlier (usually 'cos I can't quite remember when 5000 is up...)

Recommend it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/#findComment-234
Share on other sites

In an engine like the RB25DET I think the thinner the better. Nissan engines typically use a fairly thin oil anyway (normally around a 5W I think). Their tolerances seem pretty tight, so the thinner the better especially with the turbo.

In the bike I use a thicker oil (straight 40W or 50W) as it's air cooled and these engines naturally have wider tollerances. If you have an old clunker and it's using/blowing oil try a thicker viscosity.

Whatever you do keep that el Cheapo no name stuff out of your engine. Buy the best you can afford.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/#findComment-238
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
    • wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have  any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?
    • nice work, welcome to the world of CAD! fabricating accurately in 3 dimensional space is beyond me....I almost always end up making something more than once...sorry I mean I extensively use prototyping
×
×
  • Create New...