Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used to run Mobil 1.

BUT, just as a treat one day and I liked the name I tried Royal Purple, there is no point in trying to sell it. You just have to try it yourself and see the results. I couldn't believe that oil would make such a difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/#findComment-232
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
I used to run Mobil 1.

BUT, just as a treat one day and I liked the name I tried Royal Purple, there is no point in trying to sell it. You just have to try it yourself and see the results. I couldn't believe that oil would make such a difference.[/quote:fd1587d658]

i've heard nothing but praise about the royal purple. it's on everyones top list so it must be worth it. i think i'll try it in around 2000k's when my service is due.

peakRPM, how much do you pay for 5L?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/#findComment-233
Share on other sites

There are about 3 different "grades" of Mobil 1. I'm not talking about the viscosity but the actual quality.

This was news to me a couple of weeks ago. I have been using the 0W40 I get from my Bro in law. Cost price is now $16/litre, used to be around $10. It's good stuff. It's not the same as the stuff you get at K-Mart.

The car blew some tiny puffs of smoke when it 1st went in but now doesn't blow/use any. Thin as water. I change it every 5000 or earlier (usually 'cos I can't quite remember when 5000 is up...)

Recommend it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/#findComment-234
Share on other sites

In an engine like the RB25DET I think the thinner the better. Nissan engines typically use a fairly thin oil anyway (normally around a 5W I think). Their tolerances seem pretty tight, so the thinner the better especially with the turbo.

In the bike I use a thicker oil (straight 40W or 50W) as it's air cooled and these engines naturally have wider tollerances. If you have an old clunker and it's using/blowing oil try a thicker viscosity.

Whatever you do keep that el Cheapo no name stuff out of your engine. Buy the best you can afford.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/#findComment-238
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...