Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey Greg,

Well that’s pretty silly paint lol, I wonder why they would bother putting it on then? anyway, I’ll be getting a set of these, how would i go about getting the paint off?

What are the downsides to not heat wrapping them? just a hotter engine bay or will other things go wrong?

I am still a bit hesitant about heat wrapping mine because I heard that you can do damage too them when they don't cool down quick enough. Have you come across any of these problems?

ohh and what heat wrap did you use?

Thanks mate,

Regards,

Sean'O

i didnt really think heat was such a big issue with headers, obviously the engine bay is a little warmer, and you might get a cool orange glow if you give it enough stick - but since headers deal with exhaust gases and the gases are constantly being expelled i cant see any sort of large significant gain.

although someone can come tell me otherwise, i'd like to know as well.

Hmm, well that all looks very pretty but, it sounds very expensive and in my case a bit unnecessary,

I only have a RB20DE, and its not a dragster lol, so I don't think I will need the heat protection presuming that the extra heat by just having them in there won't damage anything during everyday driving.

However I would like the corrosion protection to make them last a bit longer, wouldn't the caliper paint (as suggested above) be sufficient here?

What we need here is an opinion by somebody who installs exhausts, or someone who has had this particular unit for a while.

I'm still assuming that the level of heat protection etc is dependant upon the style of driving your car goes through, if you just drive to work and back I would guess that ceramic coating is a bit extreme, but if you do track work or something, maybe its worth it.

Again I’m just prating on, we really need some guidance here,

Regards,

Sean'O

The bottom of my intake pipe started to melt from the high temperatures. This could have caused a fire and ultimate destruction of engine. This, and the power gains, is why I recommend to heat wrap them. Having said this there are plenty of people using them un heat wrapped without dramas

The orange paint is just to stop them rusting while they're in the shop etc. so they look good.

You could use a blowtorch to get the paint off, or paint stripper, or just heat wrap over it, won't be the end of the world.

Cheers

Greg

thanks for your input greg, much appreciate it...

guys please check the group buy thread, i have updated the first post accordingly - and will need each one of you to state what it is exactly that you want. then we can finalize prices.

see here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=140134

i'm getting a 2.5" outlet, gasket, hpc coated with economy delivery and it's totaled to AUD$425 which is an absolute steal!!!

guys, some good news... i've called up and we are pretty much good to go.

- they are able to cut the outlet back to 2.25 to 2.50", since i know most of you would have/looking into a catback system in future.

- hpc coating is AUD$170 per header.

- i've also made mention about the orange paint and they are looking into that, obviously not a worry with HPC coating.

- i've also made arrangements for a variety of shipment, these will go from them straight to your door.

- rb30e extractor is also available (the code is D5) and i have sweet talked them into including that into the arranged price with rb20/25.

shipment options

International Express (1-3 days) AUD$100.00

International Air (3-6 days) AUD$70.00

International Economy ( 10-15 days) AUD$60.00

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2659059

another update guys... please check the first post of the group buy thread - make sure everything adds up accordingly and is correct.

confirm with me and i'll provide you with bank details.

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Well just got myself one... Can't wait to hear the extractors on my r34... It already sound rippy... imagine with extractors and 2.5' exhaust mmm =]~. Oh also If you guys are to get one or anything from eug. do so he makes things so easy ^_^ and obviously well trusted! Cheers eug again.

Edited by Specrzx
  • 2 weeks later...

you should receive yours well before anybody else buddy, since you have air freight and are not waiting on hpc coating.

check the link in my sig to check the group buy thread for updates.

according to the email i recieved yours was sent out on the 29th of november so give it 3-6 working days... expect them around the end of the coming week, or beginning of the week after. let me know otherwise.

please be patient, this stuff is coming internationally

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...